time to finish my g-machine

[drfunk]

i need to work on my handling now. can any one provide me with some feed back on these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448533839&category=33582
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448068305&category=33582
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2449313357&category=33586
http://www.fastwrx.com/freeddesstru.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2449195922&category=33586

[ArthurS]

Do not go with a non-name brand. 2 out of 3 of those ebay auctions are junk. If you are looking for springs, go Perrin, TEIN, Prodrive, Eibach, or STi (I am sure there are more name brands).

[AtomicLabMonkey]

If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky.

[ArthurS]

If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky.

I agree, but name-brand springs have a warrenty that you know can be used. If I go buy some Sunnyside Springs....or some other generic brand, who knows how soon they could sag and when they do, if the company will honor a warrenty.

[AtomicLabMonkey]

Do not go with a non-name brand. 2 out of 3 of those ebay auctions are junk. If you are looking for springs, go Perrin, TEIN, Prodrive, Eibach, or STi (I am sure there are more name brands).

...and Hypercoil, QA1, H&R among others if you're looking for standard dimension coil-over springs.

My advice would be to look for manufacturers that guarantee their spring rate control, for example that any spring you buy from them will be within +/- 5% of the published spring rate. The good mfr's do this, some others don't... if they don't then you don't really know what you're getting. They might advertise a 350lb/in spring, but the one you get in the box might actually only be 322 lb/in. I know Hypercoil in particular guarantees their rate control within 2%... of course their springs are also pretty pricey.

[sperry]

If you're not fabricating it yourself, you tend to get what you pay for dude. No-name car parts you see on the E-Bizzle are super dook. Those springs in the "coil-over" kit would probably lose their rates and sag after a month, if you were lucky.

You said "E-Bizzle" and "super dook" in the same post.

:lol:

[AtomicLabMonkey]

You said "E-Bizzle" and "super dook" in the same post.

:lol:

You're Dr. Galacaweicz?

Yes... yes I am.

[drfunk]

ok i dont have enough money to complete all my susp. mods i want. i was thinking maybe the tein springs and an anti-lift kit. i can do this for under $300. are there any better combos i can do that are cheap?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448829681&category=33586
http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=77_121_129&products_id=52
im also pretty hesetant about buying things off ebay. i never have before.

[tysonK]

ok i dont have enough money to complete all my susp. mods i want. i was thinking maybe the tein springs and an anti-lift kit. i can do this for under $300. are there any better combos i can do that are cheap?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448829681&category=33586
http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=77_121_129&products_id=52
im also pretty hesetant about buying things off ebay. i never have before.

I have bought all kinds of shit ofy ebay, from $5.00-$1,500. So far I have had no bad things happen. I know things do happen but I think it is getting better. As long as you know what you are buying and the person you are buying from responds to e-mails in a prompt manner I think those two things usally lead to good buying.

[sperry]

About the ALK, Sean:

It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is *not* the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120.

All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference!

[JC]

About the ALK, Sean:

It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is *not* the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120.

All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference!

Wouldn't the fact that he has a turbo kit put him in modified anyway?

What suspension mods do you have now?

[sperry]

Wouldn't the fact that he has a turbo kit put him in modified anyway?

What suspension mods do you have now?

Turbo kit puts him in Street Modified with me and Dean and Austin.

Street Mod:
http://www.wincom.net/trog/stu/images/stu_banner.jpg

D Modified:
http://www.championmotorcars.com/images/del/Topeka%202002%20CMC%207_500.jpg

[JC]

You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay.

[AtomicLabMonkey]

Street Modified brings enough expense & effort along with it if you want to be anything remotely resembling "competitive", let alone all-out Modified.

[AtomicLabMonkey]

You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay.

Have you ever looked at the SCCA Solo-II rulebook? It's thicker than a goddamned encylopedia. There are a lot of things that aren't allowed, and most of them fall under the category of:

http://images.lamer.net/bsmeter.gif

[drfunk]

About the ALK, Sean:

It's illegal in SCCA in all but the Modified classes, which I don't think you want to run in just yet. Plus the biggest benefit from the ALK is *not* the +5deg caster, is just the harder bushing material. You could just as easily go to the group-N STi rubber bushings for cheaper, and get 9/10s the benefit, spend less money, and stay SM legal. Plus there's no stupid sub-frame spacers that the ALK kit requires. And if you really want polyurethane instead of rubber, I believe Whiteline makes a poly replacement bushing for the stock bracket, which should be only $20 or $30 instead of $120.

All that said, I'd recommend a rear swaybar, mounts, and endlinks before the ALK, or front control arm bushings. The ALK will help, but the rear bar is the ticket for dialing out the understeer in the WRX. Adding a stiffer rear bar is a night and day difference!

Wouldn't the fact that he has a turbo kit put him in modified anyway?

What suspension mods do you have now?
i dont have any susp. mods yet, but i ordered the springs. i want more but im a cheap ass and dont want to spend too much.

[BOO]

You can't use an ALK in street mod? Are you joking? Autocross is gay.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: