Supercharger setup arrived!

[Duckie]

If you guys know anyone who would be willing to tackle this 14 hour install job at a relatively cheap price let me know. I am currently pricing things around to see what the best price would be for a competent install.

http://www.ecutune.com/svx-stage3.htm has the instructions for the undertaking to give an idea of how heavy duty everything will be work wise.

[Duckie]

Just a FYI 14 hours is super conservative...its been done in 7.

[JonnydaJibba]

Team Supercharger fuck yeah.

[sperry]

Nice... but here's my "I told you so" post... don't get your feelings all hurt.

Originally Posted by Duckie

As far as the 600 horse, it is completly reasonable because I am not talking about to the wheels . I am talking at the crank, after my engine rebuild it will be well beyond 600 and I bet I might even be putting out 450 crank with just my current build.

http://www.seccs.org/forums/showpost...7&postcount=26

Here's their dyno chart for that kit (just ignore the crazy torque anomalies from before the TC locks up):



270 hp, on one pull on a DynaPack. They claim that's "about 385 crank". More realistically looking at the average of those pulls, that's 250-260 at the wheels, which is generously estimated at 350 crank.

What did I say? Oh yeah:

Originally Posted by sperry

Um, 600 hp at the crank is ESX drag car territory! Hell, that's more power than some of the Speed GT cars make. Even with a complete rebuild, all forged everything, trick heads, trick cams, standalone EM, 15psi on the blower, alky injection, aftercooler, and nitrous, I bet that motor doesn't make 600 crank hp.

You will probably be making around 350 crank on your current build, which is around 250 to 275 at the wheels, and that assumes you've got a tight low mileage motor.

I think you're inflating the numbers in your head a little. 250 at the wheels in an AWD car is actually *insanely* fast compared to 95% of the cars on the road. Don't be dissapointed when your current build comes back at under 300awhp.

http://www.seccs.org/forums/showpost...9&postcount=29

Maybe... just maybe... I've learned something in the $50,000 of work I've done (and re-done... and re-done a third time, and will probable have to do again) to my car over the last 5 years.

That said, I hope the install goes well, and I hope you beat the numbers put down by their prototype car. I also hope that you realize an SVX with 250awhp is *rediculously* fast. I can't wait to see it!

[Duckie]

That dyno pull was not the final tune nor the 12.6 pound pulley .

[Bob Danger]

I bet you'll need some guages for that monster.

[Duckie]

Actually my main concern is not blowing up my tranny until I can afford a suitable one to handle the power. God knows the current power is too much for the auto. I will be running gaugeless for awhile but I will need at least an AFR and a boost gauge.

[Kevin M]

$7500 and they can't even throw in a boost and EGT gauge? 0.o

[murphy]

you could try Allan at Modified autosalon 826-5545. They like doing that kind of thing.

[ScottyS]

Originally Posted by sperry

That said, I hope the install goes well, and I hope you beat the numbers put down by their prototype car. I also hope that you realize an SVX with 250awhp is *rediculously* fast. I can't wait to see it!

No doubt. Regardless of the exact final numbers --- a clean, reliable SC'd SVX is guarenteed to make EVERYBODY want one. Hope you get hooked up with a competent install shop...

[Duckie]

The amount of R&D that went into this car was insane...7500 was a steal no doubt. In fact I didn't even pay 7500, it was cheaper for me because I was one of the initial investors. As you all know he has had my money for over 1 1/2 years now =P. The reason he doesn't include any boost gauges (I am pulling this out of my ass) is because it is THAT reliable and you can't tune it yourself unless you were to buy a stand alone. The current tune was created by hacking the stock ECU lololol.

Anyway, I will call around today and see whats up installer wise.

[Nick Koan]

I'm sure you realize this, but gauges are for more then just tuning. It allows you to monitor your motors health. And yeah, most of the time everything is kosher, but when you have an aftermarket setup, you'd probably like to make sure everything is fine and dandy at all times, not just most times.

[Duckie]

Yeah I know. I just like to fool myself into thinking that it is SO reliable you wouldn't need it for anything but tuning . Like I said I need to get a boost and AFR at the minimum. But for now I am just going to be trusting in the product and riding my bike a lot .

[AtomicLabMonkey]

747's are pretty reliable too, I guess they don't need all those pesky gauges in the cockpit.

[Duckie]

Did I say I was running gaugeless forever? Does money grow on trees? I have had to deal with a lot of unexpected costs recently and I simply can not justify spending more money than I already have at this moment. I am hard pressed as it is making payments on my boyfriends surgery bill.

In short I would appreciate it if the smart ass comments be left at the door. After all, why don't you just let me blow up my car which will happen since I have no gauges. I am dealing with a lot of problems right now and would just really appreciate an effort to help me get this squared away and done atm, I don't care what power I end up putting down, I don't care if it blows up in 20k miles, I just want to be done with it at the moment.

[sybir]

Dude, people are making smartass comments for a reason.......they're trying to save you money. There are a lot of people on this board who have taken on projects with big scopes like this, and they're trying to help you avoid the pitfalls that they see.

Not putting in $100 worth of gauges to monitor the performance of the brand-new setup you're spending close to 10k after install on, before the rest of the necessary associated upgrades, is simply foolish. IF you're having trouble paying MEDICAL bills, why not sit on the parts, gather what you need to monitor the car, and save the headache? We're not talking aobut blowing up the car in 20k miles, we're talking about blowing up the car in 200 miles becuase you have absolutely no idea what's going on inside the motor, especially with a "hacked" (your words, not mine) stock ECU.

I used to work at a Subaru tuning shop, so I've seen shit go down with new setups. It's part of the game even with an experieneced builder or tuner. Scott is living proof (sorry, man )that you can't necessarily trust the person doing the work or providing the tuning solution. What if the installer screws something up, or forgets a part, or the fuel system mods don't work like they should? Would you rather find that out on the first startup, when you can fix the issue, or would you prefer to be driving along, on your way to someplace important or time-sensitive, and have your untested, unmonitored car blow up and strand you? Pay attention, and listen to experience. Noone wants to see you fail, so we're trying to give you good advice. Look at all the people saying it ounds like a cool project. We'd like to see it work, but we're also trying to help you set the right expectations and make the right plans so you're not disappointed. If you take that as smart-ass comments and think you're going to "prove us wrong" you deserve whatever happens to your car. Why risk the investment you've already made?

[Duckie]

Sorry, I am just on edge with everything that has been happening recently. No insurance+surgery=the government punching me in the face. I am going to put in gauges I just dont know if it will be at the very start of the install because I dont really have a location for them yet nor (sadly) the money to purchase some. I probably should just wait on the install until I figure those aspects out but after 2 years I am impatient.

I appologize for being on edge lately and being a prick =/. Sometimes the lemons are too sour to make lemonade ya know?

[sybir]

Yep. If I could give you one bit of advice, it would be that you've waited too long for this to rush through the setup. Take your time, and do it right the first time, and you really will save yourself time, money, and hassle in the long run.

In terms of placement, if you've replaced the stereo (I can't recall if you have), why not just get a 3-gauge 52mm pod that fits in a din slot?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIPL...spagenameZWDVW

Relatively clean, and it'll hide behind your factory radio panel to keep a factory look. Throw some Autometer gauges in, and you haven't made any weird dash or a-pillar mods but have given yourself some peace of mind and monitoring for when you're exploring this new setup.

[Duckie]

My stereo is stock but I am toying with just taking it out so doing a double din gauge setup might be a great solution if I choose to take this route.

[AtomicLabMonkey]

Originally Posted by sybir

Dude, people are making smartass comments for a reason.......they're trying to save you money. There are a lot of people on this board who have taken on projects with big scopes like this, and they're trying to help you avoid the pitfalls that they see.

Exactly.. that's the only reason I said anything. It only takes a few seconds to blow up an engine (and the money, time, blood, sweat and tears that have gone into it) if even one little thing is wrong; if you can catch it by monitoring the gauges, you'll have saved yourself a ton of heartache.