I thought it was the lack of specific authorization that prevents you from changing endlinks in stock classes.

No, end links are part of the sway bar. Go look at the Stano bar. It uses end links like no other Subaru bar, and it is legal.

That's helpful. Replacing endlinks every 3 runs would get old. :D

fixed.

So bad news for me.......the Strano bars are sold out for the time being. There not expecting the next shipment for another 3 weeks. BOO! well, I guess I'll just have to wait.............

I thought I would revise this post.

First of all, I owe a big thanks to Cory for his time on Sat. morning. I took us 1.5 hours to get the damn thing in, but it went relatively smooth.

I haven't really put this new swaybar through the paces yet, but I can definetly tell there is a major difference in the way the car takes a turn. It was mentioned in a previous reply that I would have to re-learn my car. I would have to say that is probably correct. I suppose / hypothesise that my car would be a little more prone to spinning out if I throw it into a turn.

Again, Cory thanks a TON for putting in my new 32mm StanoBar!

NO PROBLEM DUDE!!! Was cool just to hang out anyway!

I'm sure if I ever do another, it'll go a LOT faster, seeing as I know exactly what needs to be "helped" in to place now! :lol:

Hope it lives up to it's promises!

I don't think it will cause it to be significantly more tail happy from what I have read. Now that the front will be stable, you will be able to adjust the handling with rear tire pressure.

I assume you have already dialed in some negative camber in the front with the stock bolts. You should be able to get to about 1 degree negative.

As I remember it I would typically run 38psi in the front, and 42 - 44 in the rear.



I haven't yet played with the camber. What will -1 degree of camber do for my car and its handling? Is it something I can do myself, or do I need to take it into a tire shop and have it re-aligned?


Cory, no problem. I had fun. I hope that beer serves you well!

I don't claim to be an RE070 expert, but I want to say at autocross they guys were shooting for 40-44PSI warm in the front. A pyrometer or chalk will help you dial in front presures for optimal front grip, and then you adjust the rear pressure for handling.

Most often, you take the rear higher to help free it up and allow the car to rotate or at least get it nuetral.

An alignment rack is you best bet unless you want to go crazy like Scott and I do and use laser levels, plastic bags, and "Lowes" creations to do your own alignment.

Most Imprezas are factory set to 0 to -.5 degrees of front camber. You'd like -1.5 or more for Autocross or the track, and even 1.0 would be nice for better street handling. That is about all you can get out of the stock bolts which is all you would be permitted to use in AS.

The rear typically has -1.5 from the factory.

Why do they do this? Well, we are bozo Americans and don't know how to drive, so they build understeer into the cars. the -1.5 in the rear makes it very sticky. The 0 in front makes it very un sticky, thus understeer.

Note: Negative camber will make the inside edges of your tires wear a little faster especialy if you do a lot of long highway miles with miniimal cornering. But it is the price you pay for having better handling in the corners.

A stiffer front bar should not make the car snap-oversteer. In fact, conventional wisdom states that the stiffer front bar will actually have the opposite effect, making the car more pushy. But since you improve the camber curve, in reality you get more front grip, rather than less... but still it should be more along the lines of steady state grip rather than something that would make the car snap oversteer.