Why did you guys take it off?

Lowering springs... The HUGE swaybar wouldn't allow enough droop in the front suspension to remove the strut.

Um.. just disconnect the endlinks? Why did you have to take off the whole bar?

That's all they did. The endlinks wouldn't come back together after being taken apart.

Yeah, only the endlinks were disconnected, not the entire bar removed. It just requires a LOT of compression to get the endlink bolts back in, even with the car's weight on the LCAs. That bar is BIG...

That's what she said. :lol:




*srry couldn't help mahself!

That's not right! With the car level, with its weight on the wheels, there should be zero load on the swaybar... If that's not the case, something's screwed up, like the endlinks aren't the right length or something.

It makes me wonder, if when we first put that thing on there. Did we tighten up the endlink bolts too much?

I'm still waiting to hear why someone would want to put a 36mm FSB on a Mustang.

That was a joke, I think the damn thing already has a big FSB on it. Like 1-1/4" or something like that.

Concerning the 32mm FSB. This is a direct quote from Sam Stranos concerning his swaybar design as taken from NASIOC.

Yeah, there's no slop in the bushings when everything's *tightened*, but you shouldn't have to bend the sway bar to get the endlinks to line up during installation. If the car is level and at normal ride height, the endlink bolts should just slide right into the bar... no fuss, no pre-load, etc.

If that's not the case, then your sway bar is adding spring rate to the front suspension when it's just sitting there, and that's no good. Swaybars are only supposed to act when the car rolls.

Pre-loading the bushings allows you to modify the bar-effect delay during turn-in, but that has nothing to do with pre-loading the bar itself.

Hmm... what you say makes sense of course, all I know is it was put in per the instructions, and still a motherfucker... Maybe those bolts aren't long enough...

:lol:

I dont think those bolts are long enough, I had to put the cars stock crap jack under the bolt and jack it up so it compressed the bushings enough to where i could thread the nut on to the bolt, I think that bolt just needs to be 1/8'' longer, that way it would make install that much easier, plus you would still be able to tighten the bolt down the same.