Nope, bigger (just barely) rotors than the WRX, calipers are about the same. The problem is the extra 800 lbs. My Thunderbird had the exact same problem... right down to the perpetual reports of "warped brakes".

An additional 800 lbs is nothing to scoff at, but I'm still surprised that upgraded pads and fluid wouldn't make this beast safe for the streets at least. But obviously you'd know better than I since you own one.

I think some of it has to do with poor brake balance. At 1st I had Axxis Ultimates up front and OEM pads in the rear. When I replaced both front and rear pads w/ Axxis Deluxe pads my braking actually worked better even though the Deluxes aren't quite as good as the Ultimates, simply because I was giving more work to the rear brakes.

That said, I'm not really sure why the SVX is so underbraked... on paper it should do fine... it's got 11"+ ventilated front rotors and 2-pot sliding calipers... that's enough brake that it requires 16" wheels! And the car is about 4000 lbs wet w/ driver... that's not exceedingly heavy (though I wouldn't call it "light" by a long shot). I think the car may just need some thicker rotors to act as a better heat sink or something. I'm not sure... braking systems are actually extremely complicated.

That makes sense, if the brake bias is like 90% front or somthing.

Im running brembo/bradi rotors, good pads, fluid, and SS lines. They will serve me ok for now until I upgrade to 6 pots in the front.

Oh, and JC I missed your post about me being a girl earlier hehe; I'm not a girl, just a guy who doesn't descriminate to gender ;)

That makes more sense. I'll jump on the bandwagon and say you should upgrade the brakes more sooner rather than later. Although adding lightness will help braking.

:)


And what kind of dyno will you be using? The mustang?

Yeah, the mustang dyno ^^.

Thats a tough dyno...

Another 6 cylinder swap ... link

Ok, a little update on whats going on. You may have noticed my heap isnt done! A set back in the form of hood clearence reared its ugly head because of an upgrade to a 6 rib pulley from a 4. Easily fixable but the guy doing work on it...well...he does great work but needless to say he is slow. May will mark 1 year and 5 months that he has had my money ;(. Other news, the tranny switch wont be happening this summer, maybe this winter. Reason being is my boyfriend needs an operation so he comes first. But the tranny will still be comming and I am still feeling out options as far as that goes. Brake wise, there have been some developements in the brake sector (not by me or by the guy im paying) and there may be 6 pots in the front and 4 pots in the rear available soon. Always a good thing, I miss the porsche where I had the "big red brakes" and I could scare the piss out of people in the car by braking fast. Nothing new in the interior department, still running ghetto and see no reason to do otherwise.

Someone with the same setup (but with a jdm 6spd tranny) will be running the strip soon. I predict he will run between a 12.3-12.5 but we will see. On an unrelated note best buy forgot to send me a bill for 2 months, and i didnt pay it, and SOMEHOW I came out with no late payments, the same balance, and no intrest still. This is the crowning achievment of my life.

Sweet!

Keep us updated on that.

Is it too late to take you up on the bet ? and what are the terms now exactly ? $20 that you don't hit 280 Whp on the mustang dyno ? I'de take that :)

^ :lol:

The bet is that I don't hit 375 crank HP. And if you would like to take the bet, then sweet =D. The reason the bet is for crank HP is because I KNOW how bad the freaking AT tranny is and how much power it will sap before it ever hits the floor. But if anyone seriously wants to take the bet (because I am serious about it) then feel free to but know I will hold you to it ;).

More updates on the car: There are 6 pot fronts 355 mm, and 4 pot rears available for the car. I am not sure if I have to run either 18's or 17's on the car. I already have a good set of 17's (not the best...kinda blingy but oh well) but for the brake upgrade I really wouldnt mind shelling out the extra money to be able to accomadate for the brakes.

Next devlopement, I FINALLY got the guy who is making my Stage III SC kit to spill some beans about his development on stage IV work that he has been doing to his prototype. I can't reveal everything as I have sworn not to leak any information that he wants me to keep secret and the only reason I am "in the know" is because I shelled out my money almost immediatly when he said he was going to start stage III (the second person to do so in fact) and that I was willing to help fund future development with a fairly sizeable cash flow from me. Anyway this is what I can tell you:1. I will never need a stand alone EM, had I decided to go the turbo then I would absolutely need a stand alone...in retro spec I am super glad I decided to invest in the SC route. The ECU (modified of course) is capable of controling around 1000 HP and you can have a completly custom tune put on your car. However this is by far from a perfect system for a few reasons. There is no way to put more than one tune on the car which means when the time comes I will have to make some decisions about running 91 octane all the time....or to run higher. Stage IV will be using a dual intake system, and a bigger pulley. I personally may upgrade to a bigger SC as well but that would require a custom hood and would be a major pain in the ass. The engine obviously has to be built to run anymore HP then what the stage III will have to offer. I also need to address the tranny because it cant handle stage III power (IMO) and definantly can't handle any more than that. I am leaning to a custom gearbox just because of what the cruising RPMs will be. So all in all everything is looking up more and more and you will be seeing one helluva a beast.

355mm rotors = 18" wheels, with maybe a few possible exceptions that you would have to search far and wide for. And it sounds suspiciously like a Stoptech ST60/355 kit...

Yeah, looks like 18's will be in order... *sigh* time to start saving up for some very lightweight rims. This looks like my current to do list:

1. Put on stage III
2. New tranny
3. Some parts of new exaust
4. Wheels (only so I can reach #5 otherwise I wouldn't touch them)
5. New brakes

Once all of this is established it will be time to build the engine, then put more power through it.

I still want to know how you're going to establish what the flywheel/crank HP number is on a car that doesn't have a flywheel, and is on an older, slipping auto.

My car threw down a whopping 103hp/110tq on a Mustang in a previous iteration, ther'es no way to translate that to crank HP except comparing to an identical car with no mods in factory optimal condition and referencing the original claimed hp/tq formt he factory, which may or may not be valid ;)

Devil's advocate here, but I know more than most about heartbreaker dynos and how the numbers extrapolate to real life....

hahaha i just started reading this thread. the svx puts out only 133 whp stock (like scotts). I dont see it putting down anywhere near 500 crank horse power.. or 400 for that matter. thats like 500 crank is like 350 whp.. @ 6 psi. no way. I'd bet on something lower than 250 whp. I'm talking MD. then again i could be wrong..

here's my gipe.. yes it's cool, a boosted svx.. i admit it and if it were me and my car was the svx.. i'd do it because it's fun

but you put in xxxxx amount of dollars for low 200 whp? the new 06 wrx's will give you a run for your money with turbo back exhuast. I know some people here can see what i'm trying to say..

yeah it's like trying to compare apples and oranges.. but once it's modded, let the comparision be ON.. for example, SPOOLN's "old" Talon Tsi or an old "rex" (honda crx). yeah you think it'd be unfair to compare it to a turbo back STi, but if i were a bett'n man, i'd put my money on spooln's talon or that old boosted crx any day.

anyway, props to you man, that was alot of work and heart ache i'm sure. plus +1 for the unique build. i'd definetly be safe with the boost at least for a little while. What type of EMS are you going to use? it might have already been said, but i didn't read all the other posts.

crap i posted on ryan's sn.. this is evo mike, wtf is ryan doing on my computer?

Ok, well here is the thing. My auto tranny is in absolutely perfect un slipping condition and the car has been taken care of with an insane amount of pride and know-how (not by me but by my uncle who I bought it from). Here is what I think the only logical thing is to do...I am going to go get this dynoed before I put anything on it. It is currently a bone stock car with absolutely no mods. Then we can have our bet based on the numbers I get. I would also make the bet that my car puts out more hp then scott's did stock, if you knew my uncle you would understand.

As far as hitting 500 with the setup thats going in...hell no I wont hit that. My High estimate of crank power is 450, my low estimate is 400. I wont be heartbrocken if it turns out I only hit 350 crank hp...life happens you know? I talk big about the car because I have faith in it and like all things car related until I put data where my words are it will be nothing more than talk.

As far as my cost to return ratio I know its crap. I expect that, I know that, I see that, and despite that I dont care. I love the SVX and want to mod it and only it. I could have built a 10 second drag car for the money invested but I dont care. Ive spent 6,340 on the supercharger setup (instal not included) 5,000 on the car itself, 1,000 for my rims and tires, 400+ brakes and stuff, and then I have some cosmetic parts lying around that arent going on yet that I have spent about 1000 total on. I recognize this is just the beggining and I am willing to spend the money so no more arguments about cost hehe.

I am not running a stand alone EMS I am running a modified version of the stock ECU which has been responding great.

I have looked into and decided not to get a supercharger for my 911. The one I looked at would add 100 hp (crank) at 7psi. I highly doubt you can reach your goals comparing the two cars. While it will be fun, you should be realistic, kind of like removing your ABS because you drive in the snow. Tell you what, let's go to a parking lot with the exact same tires and weight in the car in 4" of snow and brake as hard as we can at the exact same time: me with ABS and you majically pumping your foot as fast as you can.

If you dont think I will make an additional 100 crank hp on my car with the setup thats going to be going in it...well I hope you would be joking. Unlike your 911 there is a lot more going on my car modification wise to bring up the hp then just simply a bolt on supercharger(like the one you are most likely talking about). But if that is truly whatchya think feel free to be the first person to sign up for my bet, put your money where your mouth is. Either stop telling im unrealistic and believe my claims or pony up and put 20 bucks down =P That is my challenge to every one of you ^_^.

As far as your braking scenerio goes...if I ever put myself in a situation where I have to brake as hard as I can IN SNOW then I deserve to crash. I prefer cars without ABS, I have driven plenty of both and that is MY preference and if you don't like it, frankly you can go preach elsewhere because I am not going to magically change my mind.

Well good sir, I have only one question. How are you going to verify you crank horsepower power? Puting a car on the dyno will provide you an acurate wheel horsepower.

Take the engine out of the car, and just put it on an engine dyno.

Sorry if I came off a little harsh. Honestly I hope you get what you want out of the car. Like Sperry I just think you should jut be prepared for it not to make as much so you are not disappointed. While my reference to the bolt on for my 911 was in fact, yes just a bolt on: what modifications to your flat six did you make that exceeds the power potential of a porsche 3.6L hand built motor with forged internals?

I am no longer going to do the bet off of crank horse power. I will do it off of increase from my stock power. It is really the only realiable way to do it without pulling the engine (which I don't plan on doing). We could make the bet for a 115 increase in horse power to the wheels (keep in mind that is lot since the AT tranny robs the hell out of the horsepower). But in the end you guys are right, there is no reliable way to check crank hp without engine dynoing it so it was silly of me to be talking as if there was a way.

Btw, I am jealous of your 911, what year is it? My dad used to drive a 911 before he sold it underpriced like an idiot and his current car is a first year 350z. The 911 was a mid 90's and had little work done to it (not that it needs work done to it) and it was a sweet car. The thing is, when you buy a higher end car, there is less and less you can do for improvements. On the SVX there were TONS of room for improvements in the stock design (even back when it was released) and that makes it easier to see larger horse power gains. Obviously as I do more and more stuff to the car the already crappy money to power ratio will decrease, just like it does for your porsche. This is a list of everything that is changing for my setup from stock with a few minor things like better spark plugs etc. not included:
1) ECUtune memory adaptor and SVX Stage III software
2) ECUtune manifold, black or cast gray powder coat, core required
3) ECUtune hard fuel lines, core required
4) ECUtune throttle body adaptor, black or cast gray powder coat
5) ECUtune alternator bracket/tensioner, black powder coat
6) ECUtune tensioner, black powdercoat
7) ECUtune crank pulley, black or silver anodize
8) ECUtune 6 rib power steering pulley(actually four rib now...the six cause clearence problems), black or silver anodize
9) ECUtune machined ac compressor bracket, black powder coat, core required
10)ECUtune IAC manifold, black or silver powder coat
11)ECUtune Bypass valve manifold, black or silver powder coat
12) Whipple 1600AX supercharger
13) Whipple 4&5/16" Drive snout
14) Whipple bypass valve
15) NISMO SR20 740cc fuel injectors
16) Tomei fuel injector clips
17) Nissan maf meter (used)
18) Tomei Nissan maf meter plug
18) Gates ac compressor belt
19) Gates supercharger and power steering pump belt
20) Dayco alternator belt

And I am sorry for comming off all defensive hehe, it was late and I probably misinterpreted(wow I really am the worst speller on this planet) the tone of your post. Plus sometimes I act like a crotchety old man despite me being a youngin.

115 increased WHP to the wheels? dang i'd bet on that guys! thats' like a 2x increase in bwhp! my car doesn't even do that on race gas! (bwhp 215 -->350whp)

i dont know of a significant power increase like that unless severe internal work is done. IMO. All this talk about bet and money, i just wanna see the real thing on the dyno!

should 350 HP be abouts 250 AWHP ??? (at least assuming sti losses ) ? if you really think you are in the 400-450 HP , you should really see 250 AWHP + (esp if the tranny is good) so how about $20 on that , 250 AWHP on a mustang dyno ?

i'm new to this thread. seems like an awesome project.

brakes/wheels: have you looked into willwood? i'm not sure the model name but they have a fairly new caliper out that is made to be stuffed it in a smaller rim. give todd at tce in tempe, az a call.

have you had your exhaust made yet? if not, i would love to help you out with that. headers would be more difficult, not sure if i could gather enough time for it. but from the header back i can do. i have acess to a tig welder, and i've done summit-cut-n-weld mandrel bent tubing before. although i don't think summit has stainless tube, i know where to get it.

Just an aside when looking at brakes, I really wasn't impressed with the billet Dynalite setup I had on my car. If their new caliper is considerably beefier and has a smaller required fluid volume, it'd be worht checking out, but the Wilwood 4pots I had were underwhelming on a 3100 pound AT car, let alone a 3500 pound one; especially if you're going to revamp the braking system to remove ABS, I'd be leery just becuase the feel was so crappy and would be difficult to modulate at the limit (I just had to mash them to the floor to combat the flex and higher fluid volume and rely on the ABS to sort it out :()

Again, just my experience, but I'd never buy Wilwoods again for a number of reasons, including the caliper fnish (horrible, they turned purple on a street car with no wheel cleaners ever used) and the lack of any weather sealing whatsover; if you're running a car year-round, I'd really try to find a caliper setup with at least rudimentary dust seals.

I know it's tough to find stuff for SVX's, it might be worth looking into an '05/'06 STi front setup if it will work (I don't know how the hardpoints and offsets on the front hubs differ)

Hehe...I WISH I could say that my tranny would sap away the same amount as the STi did...but it doesn't sadly =(. The tranny in SVXi is really a giant POS and it just rapes HP which is why it is on the priority list to get changed. Like I said I will take the car and get it dynoed, then we could make the bet from there (although I don't really care about my setup making me money...I just want it on and see what it can do).

And I totally forgot about suspension, that is what will be changed after the tranny.

I would also steer clear of most Wilwood calipers. When I went out to work a race with a Grand Am Cup team last year, I noticed their front Wilwoods produced pretty horrible taper wear on the pads.