No stock in Lockwood, or just not worth the drive?

No stock according to their website when I placed the order. Plus, it's not worth taking time off to drive out there. However, it says it shipped from "NV". Do they have a warehouse in Vegas or something?

Don't think so.

BTW, the brake shoes I got for the rear of my GF's Civic (for $16 :lol:) say that they "may" contain asbestos. WTF Tirerack?

Don't sniff them...

Asbestos is not extinct, it just has to be handled correctly and the fibers bound by something in the finished product. It has been in brake pads for many years.

BTW caliente motor sports has crazy rotor pricing. last time i needed STI rotors i paid $220 shipped, for all 4 !:huh: I just send him PM on IWSTI.com

Course they are just 'blanks' but hey seems to work for stock class :lol:

need rotors for an 04 sti, anybody know where i can find the cheapest deal on front rotors

ebay, google shopping... Buy the cheapest you can find flat or slotted. No drilled!

Bump...I was going to do a set of DBA slotted rotors up front with oem subaru rotors in the rear with HPS pads and stainless steel lines it was going to be about $700...but then I found this package

Full WRX Brake Kit - CompleteIncludes four rotors, front & rear pads, braided stainless lines, and one liter of ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

04379Regular price: $495.00Sale price: $399.00Model Year:

Our combo packages are a great way to overhaul your brake system while saving some dough. Each packages contains high-quality OEM-spec rotors (SP or Centric brand), plus the superb Hawk HPS brake pads.

For 2002-07 WRX, STi, and non-turbo Impreza. Front kits also fit 2008+ cars. Watch for more packages in the near future!

Step up to the Complete brake kit and add Techna-Fit braided stainless brake lines, plus ATE Super Blue brake fluid

Good buy? There are a few other things I was going to buy so I wanted to save a little on the brake package. But yes I am going to replace the rotors and lines. And I want decent stopping power for autocross. Appreciate the advice...

Link?

Should not be the same price for all those cars.

Why do you need new rotors? Stockers are fine until minimum thickness.

Otherwise, as long as they are not cross drilled, that is not a bad deal.

FYI, front rotors for my car are $36 each at NAPA in Fernley.

Were the DBA slotted rotors directional? Opinions on directional rotors?

Full WRX Brake Kit - Complete

http://fastwrx.com/brrocopa.html

I was going to replace the rotors, because during mild to hard braking, on an off ramp for instance, I get a little pulsing feel. I thought that was a sign of worn rotors, but I could be way off. The car has 49K on it and has been thru autox and daily driving. How could I know if they were worn to minimum thickness? Measure them with calipers? Could I just get away with lines, fluid and pads?

Your rotors are definitely resurfaceable. It's really hard to wear rotors down to min. thickness naturally. However, pulsing can come back after resurfacing.

How do you prevent the build up of pad material on the rotor and there-by the pulsing?

Pad material needs to be bedded into the rotor. Pulsing is most often due to uneven deposits caused by improper bedding or hot pads/rotors being left in contact.

In some cases, you can remove build up by rebedding the pads. Sometimes a more aggressive pad is needed to remove the old material first.

For more information than you can stand, check out the tech pages at www.Stoptech.com

Directional vented rotors typically outcool non-directional.

So what do you think dean? Should I just go with lines and pads and fluid then see how they feel?

What pads are in them now? Try rebedding them and spend nothing first.

Lines are really not worth it until you upgrade calipers. There is far more flex in the stock sliding caliper than there is expansion in a stock brake line. You are unlikely to notice any difference between lines.

What do you want the pads to do?

Stock pads are still on the car...stock fluid too...haha. Um, I want pads for AutoX and DD. I was just going to go with the Hawk HPS. I was going to go with the SS lines just because they are such a popular upgrade and come packaged with most fluids and pads.

The stock pads aren't bad. For DD and occasional Autocross, go ahead and just wear them out.

If you want better pads, I'd lean EBC greens. They come with a special coating that wipes the old compound off as they bed in. Might resolve your pulsing. Drop those in and maybe some Motul RBF 600 and you will be good to go for quite some time.

Remember, Nick's car has 4 piston front, 2 piston rear brakes. No sliders...

Oh, Did not realize that was true on the TR. With the RS, 2.5i or whatever it is going to drum rears, who knows what is on which car. It used to be simple in the U.S. STI=fixed multi-pot, All others = sliders.

In that case lines might stiffen the pedal a tiny bit, but on a 3 year old car, the stock rubber should still be pretty solid and you won't really notice it in DD and autocross much.

Typically you do notice that the lines help a bit. Dean will tell you that it's because you put in fresh fluid at the same time, but don't listen to him. :P

I noticed that it made it so that the brakes started doing something higher in the pedal stroke and the pedal position had a linear effect on braking. Like before, all the braking was done with various pressure at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but after, the brakes started biting as soon as I got into the first inch of stroke and bit more progressively as I moved my foot toward the floor. Much easier to modulate and more responsive. Guess it could have been the fresh fluid too though.

Frankly, to me it seems you get more "feel" back from SS lines, when the stock rubber lines have more mileage, and an unreasonable amount of give. On a newer car, you might not get the big difference in feel, simply because the stock lines weren't super soft yet, but you will get a "resistance" to that issue, in that the SS lines won't degrade in the same manner that the rubber ones do.

I changed to SS lines at about 70K miles, and it was a night and day difference. A year later I went to the BBK, and that's another ball game all-together...

IMO, the benefit of SS lines is more directly related to the quality of the equipment you're attaching them to rather than the (lack of) quality of the old lines that are coming off. Certainly replacing crappy worn out lines with SS lines will make a difference, but not as much of a difference if the car still has crappy calipers. Basically, the lines have to be the weak link in the braking stiffness chain for SS line to be noticeable.

For example, I added SS lines to my stock WRX brakes and there was a noticeable improvement because the stock WRX sliding calipers aren't all that bad, even though the lines that came off the WRX weren't all that worn out. But adding SS lines to my SVX made virtually no difference in feel because the SVX's sliding calipers are so sloppy to begin with, even though the lines getting replaced were worn to the point of leaking.

My guess is that putting SS lines on the 4-pot WRX calipers will result in more positive feel, even if the existing rubber lines are relatively new. But I'll point out that the benefits of better feel due to SS lines are not all that huge unless you're really pushing the car to the limits on a regular basis. Certainly SS lines on a street only driven car are only going to be "better" in that the lines will resist damage better than the rubber ones. You really won't be able to make better use of the brakes because of the SS lines on the street.

Alright thanks for the advice everyone. I am just going to pick up a set of Hawk HPS pads and some ATE Superblue and see how my brakes feel after that. If I don't lose the shudder in the brake pedal I will get the rotors resurfaced.