Well I just changed my oil so it'll take a couple months before "the big event".

I want to get one of these. Aeroquip Quick-Drain

http://images.carcraft.com/techartic...mage_large.jpg

O-rings are not a good choice for unsealing and resealing in a gritty environment like an oil pan. The probability of leakage and o-ring damage are pretty high over time. The Fumoto is a better design if you want something like this, and there is a nippled version that would give you the same functionality.

Well, I know I am making way too big a deal about oil but I have a question. I just recently saw a few UOA results with Royal Purple, and apparently people have had problems with it degrading (thinning) down to near a 20W oil.

So my last oil change I switched to sythetic and used M1. Personally, it is really awkward for me to not be changing the oil every 3000 or so miles. So my question would be, besides the up in cost, would it matter if I run a cheap sythetic (M1, Q, Pennzoil) and just kept changing my oil ever 3000 or so miles? I know I could switch back to dino and run that with regular interval changes, but to my understanding sythentic holds up better. Any advice?

I do seem to burn a little of the 5W30 RP. When I run 10W30 in the Summer, the dipstick is happier.

I use Mobil 1 and change it every 3k in the Jeep and Toyota. Even if they saw the you can go longer, you still have metal brake down and dirt. On the wagon, I'd change it every second autoX because I was being so harsh to her.

Your so kind.

I will probably just stick with M1, i was thinking about doing that anyway. I don't really buy into the Mobile 1 causing bearing failure thing. Me thinks it was people just running it for way to long with out changing. Plus its cheap.

Redline + oil analysis ftw.

Mobil 1 has in fact changed their formula. If you're going to run it in a car that gets driven hard, run the 15w50. So when it thins out, it's still heavy weight enough.

Personally, I'm not going back to M1... not after splashing a liquefied rod bearing around the inside of my motor. Granted, the oil may not have been the direct cause of the failure, I figure why go with something that's got legitimate question marks around it. The extra cost of RedLine or Royal Purple is still far cheaper than yet another motor rebuild.

Absolutely. The dollar difference between the worst oil and best oil is small enough that the best is going to be the way to go.

Even if oil changes are still going to be at 3000 miles or so?

Let's do the math:

I can spend an extra $10 every 3000 miles on more expensive oil.

or

I can spend and extra $10,000 every 3000 miles on a new motor.

Yep, still seems cheaper to pony up for the oil, even when changing it every 3000 miles. 'Course I change my oil once every 100 miles, or once every blown rod bearing... whichever comes first.

My opinion: If you're changing every 3K miles and never driving the car hard, M-1 10W30 is probably fine. However, if you're driving hard at all, go for a better oil. I paid $6.25/qt for the two cases (12qts/case) of RP, shipped to my house. If you buy it in the 5 gallon jug, it's even cheaper.

Alright guys, thanks. You got me Scott, I think I am going to head down to Summit later and pick up some Redline (personal pref and we all love the gear oil anyway). Thanks for the input.

Edit: Will 5W30 with Redline be ok?

That is my oil and weight of choice.

+1.

in like the royal purple over the redline.

you want to run the best shit, get some Motul full syn or castrol Superbike. they actually make it in 5-30 or 5-40. whatever your flavor.

those are the only oils ill run in my bike. they arent cheap and castrol superbike smells like death. so when you burn it its kinda unpleasant.

oh and fumoto oil drain valve FTW

Well Dean, it seems I owe you a Fumoto valve.



PM me your address and I'll ship it to you or if you prefer, I can just pay up in cash.

I'm thinking I'll mod mine and ask for a rematch at some point. :D

Buy me dinner or something. I'm sticking with the washer and bolt. The quantity is not the real issue IMHO, it is the heavy particles of whatever left behind as well.

I'll tell you this, after the valve stopped dripping, I jacked up the entire driver side of the car with the valve open and about half a cup of oil gushed out of the valve. I'll certainly be doing that every time from now on. Normally I don't lift the car at all.

I lift the car anyway and before I open the drain so the bottom of the pan gets washed by as much oil as possible.

You coming to the meet tonight?

I'll be there.