Wow for 240$ ? niice. Yes that would definatly be enough. it might be a bit too much actually. Run the voice coils in parallel and then 2 speakers in parallel with each other for 1ohm. but then you are running them at 600 rms a piece when they are rated for 450 rms.

Perhaps getting this Amp
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...44239234235236
and running it at 4ohm (run the voice coils in series with each other, and then the two speakers in parallel to net 4 ohms) The amp will run cooler that way and last longer :) It should also have less distortion.

You will need a capacitor I'de go with what the industry calls a 1 faraday Cap, although in reality its 1 micro faraday but don't bring that up in a stereo shop or they will look at you a bit confused.

what gauge amp kit would i need?
also if i add another amp along with speakers later would i need an entire new amp kit or no?

if we built 2 12x12x8.5 inch boxes that would give each box a .44 cu airspace (10.5x10.5x7) internal dimensions we would have to raise the floor about 6 inches though if we wanted them rear firing but if not we could put them firing upwards and not even have to raise it at all.

both would be at the very back of the trunk in the spare tire area.

that would give us a little bit to mess around with tuning wise.

also i forgot what you said about subs firing directly at eachother would they cancel or no?

i designed a box that i can ~.42 cu ft. it might weigh kinda a lot though because obn the bottom there has to be a 10.5x10.5x3 block to get it down from like .62.
it would be removable though for autoX and have the amps mounted in the middle between the subs and would have room for a 2nd amp underneath that would be open but i would probably put a fan to circulate some air.

Well if its removable the weight won't matter so much. can't you just box off what you want for free space and leave the void, well, void ?

yea but it would look all akward. next autox ill show you what i mean.

I think i personally ran a 2 gauge power line, and a 2 gauge ground line. It can be a pain in the ass to get a shop to install the ground line. they will give you this "we never do that shit" , just give them the "I'm a paying customer, if you want to do this for free we can do it your way" Power + ground wires on 1 side of your car, run the Shielded RCA lines (preferably ones with gold plated contacts) on the Other side of your car , this makes it so you get 0 engine noise.

If you don't use a ground wire , your cars frame gets juiced all the time. you will get shocked more often getting out of your car. you are more likely to pick up engine noise on the RCA lines (since no matter which side of the car you run them on there will be returning power to the battery going through the frame next to them) And lastly constantly sending electricity through metal is an Oxidation method. (forms rust)

There is no good reason to use the frame of the car for a ground Especially once you are playing with a system that is over 1K watts.

Think i was running 12 gauge wires to my sub IIRC