'The'.






j/k :)

Street Tire (140+ treadwear rating). You won't find it in the rulebook, it is a regional-specific label.

And, it does not apply to the already-designated Street Tire classes such as STX, STS, STU (although it Can apply to Street Mod, 'SM, which even though it has the name 'Street' in its classification is not really a street tired class); and it doesn't apply to Modified or Prepared classes (i.e. DM, BP, etc.) either.

Is it confusing yet?

Here's the supplemental regulation Jeremiah:

I thought your brakes kept you out of SP last time this came up. Did they remove the restriction on brake rotor size in SP this year?

<dean>Read the damn book</dean>

No, you read the damn book!

I had a discussion with Jim Gandy a few weeks ago (we hang out a lot since we're such good chums after I accidentally won last year) ... he was thinking of proposing this change to the street tyre rules: if you have a treadwear of 140 - 200 or so, you get one handicap, and if it is over 200 (or whatever the higher number ends up being) then you get an even better handicap.

I think this is a good idea, then we can run $80 rubber and still be competitive :)

DOT treadwear numbers are useless indicators of just about anything.

They would, except that in the intro to the SP section it specifically states that ST cars can run in their appropriate SP class provided they meet the ST rules 100%. Itis included in the section saying that American Sedan, IT, Touring, Formula, etc., cars can run SP. Dean just wouldn't be able to use any additional SP allowances like a flywheel or fender flares or wider wheels/tires.

Ok, I get it. So if I'm running on re070s in Street Prepared, I'd be TDSP, but if I went nuts and bought some DOT legal race tires, I'd be DSP (and lose the handicap). And since Street Touring requires street tires with 140 UTQG anyway, the "T" prefix doesn't apply. So I'd just be STS.

Makes sense. Thanks guys :)

Werd.

Would an STI with any modifications that bump you out of Stock, be put into BSP ? and if i keep my stock tires (which are tread rated 140 ) then i'm TBSP? I'de like to buy some letters before next week. also how do we go about getting a number?

This PDF off of scca.org will give you a basic but insightful breakdown of what you can and can't do in each class. I actually reference this one regularly when browsing online for possible future mods.

http://www.scca.com/_filelibrary/Fil...categories.pdf

And you can order your number magnets (and helmet, harness, and a bunch of other useful stuff) here:

http://www.soloracer.com/index.html

Before you have a number made, just check with registration next weekend and see what cars are regulars in BSP.

It doesn't work that way. A single mod like removing your carpet might push you to prepared, not SP, ST, or SM... Pick a specific mod, and look it up, or post it and we might help. ;)

The cheapest way to do LEGAL numbers is:

1. Score some mag material from Tripp Plastics like $7 I think per foot of 24" wide stock. (Much better stuff than the Lowes vent covers)
2. Print some 900 point numbers, and some 500 point letters on your printer in the font of your choice (one of each)
3. Cut them out
4. Stick them to the mag material.
5. Trace the edges with pencil
6. Carefully cut out the mag material
7. Stick the first one to more material and trace it to make more of each as needed.
8. If you have a white vehicle, hit them with a couple coats of vinyl die.
9. Remember to make a pair of "1"s, and "L"s so you can easily have a co-driver, or heaven forbid, a lady drive your car. :)
10. If you are really board, make a couple "R"s as well for Run No Points

Mag material also makes great backing for any stickers of your choice.

You can also have custom numbers in custom colors cut and then stuck to mag material, but that may be a bit much to ask before next weekend. I'l let the guys who have that ability speak for themselves.

Oh, and Novices, You can actually get away with Single 8.5" X 11" paper numbers with the largest font you can fit an N, and a number on. Like 700 Point "N21"

Thanks for the info :) and oops, i have a K&N Air intake kit which is what i'm wondering about . air intake kits are permitted in Street Touring, but after reading the manual last night it seemed like an STI can't be in street touring and would go up to Street Prepared in the "B" class ? Also I plan on just using the stock tires which have a tread rating of 140.

The vent cover magnetic material is thin and can come flying off of cars. I think a few of us have lost letters or numbers or stickers because of this.

Any light colored car should have dark or black numbers & letters, any dark colored car should have white. Key is to be able to see it clearly from the timing bus.
Don't do: yellow letters on a white car, or black letters on a dark blue car.

hmph. Where's that homotron on board magnet? :P

Your STi is legal in STU, and in BSP with the intake. If you have engine managemnt like a reflash or Cobb AP (either of which I would highly recommend with any intake) then you would want to go to BSP so you can run altered boost and get full value from it. Plus, the only disadvantage that BSP has compared to STU is that you can't do brake upgrades, which aren't a big deal in the STi as far as autocross goes.

Thanks :) sounds good. I think i'll just order 2 blank 12X24 " white magnetic decals and Cut out some Letters & numbers (after i get assigned a number) . White leters on WR Blue should stand out well enough? (i could paint them red maye)

(long term planning/dreaming) Does porting a wastgate constitute a change in waste gate size ?

15.10 C.4.b) No changes are allowed to waste gate(s) size, number, or
location. No changes are allowed to variable-geometryturbine (VGT) hardware.

Port your wastegate and you're in Street Mod.

Again, Many thanks !! And Wow, so all while staying in Street Prepared i can change out my headers, up pipe, and add a TBE all with no Cats. (from what i've read on IWSTI i would have turbo creep) which would basically mean i'de have no turbo lag at all. which is a bigger advantage then being able to port the OE wastetage and not run around with boost creep. (i could maybe get the boost creep tuned around, or run with 1 Cat and not kill mother nature ) course i don't have money for any of that yet but just doing some planning , and it sounds like just starting off with an Access port and a Tune is a better route then headers/ exhuast :)

Just get a shorty downpipe (retains the midpipe cat) and a tune for now. You'll be stoked.

I have no idea ;)

i've got class decidig turbo up-pipe issues. i have a cobb catless. i found this(edited by me):

14.11 STX.A.6. ...blah, blah, blah... Multiple catalytic converters
may be replaced by a single unit. ...blah, blah, blah...

so can i stay in stx because my pre-turbo cat was invoulentarilly made integral to the rear 2 stock cats? or is "replaced" exactly as stated and means "replaced"?

I think you just need at least 1 cat in total somewhere in the system.

Yup.

So i don't currently have any mods that would bump me out of Street Touring, (i thought i would be in Street Prepared becuase i wasn't able to find the STI listed in street touring) but i just found it in the apendix, It says its in STU . (guess the novice + writing numbers/letters in my windows is the very best plan as mentioned here) and after 4 days i can switch over to a real class and run for points. (not that i expect a huge driving improvement in 4 days, But competing for points will add in a large fun factor for me )
looking at the results from last year i only see 1 other car in STU , what happens if there are no other cars in your correct class ? (do you get bumped up 1 ? )

The 4 events bit only applies to bringing your points results to your class. You can run novice in every event, or you can go straight to STU or TBSP if you want. If you run TBSP you'd have zero chance of finishing in the points (thank QKSUBI and MattR for that) but you would have the benefit of 2 very fast drivers in very fast cars in your run group who can help you out tremendously. Or, you can run STU by yourself, get that first jacket out of the way, and still pick their brains since it's the same run group. :p

I'm still running TSM, so you'd only have to run against qksubi and Larry Capen in BSP.

fng's don't pick a class?

BanSuv, Great plan, :) i'll run in a class alone, (and hopefully win) LoL
do they actually hand out jackets ? or just bragging rights of "i got the jacket" sorta thing?
Course maybe i could talk SilverSTI into doing a Silencer Delete so he ends up in STU as well. :lol:

Hey Brian, Why don't you run STU? I just glanced at the card, but better pax, and you could win a jacket!!!

only if he can beat me and my lousy driving, oh wait he is already beating my times easily ... hmmf. what's that about careful what you wish for ? (he wouldn't even have to mod his intake huh? you can optionally choose to run in higher classes ?) He's a better drive then i am, but i would love the compitition. :P

Actually, TAS has a much better pax than STU. And competition is always good, which is why moving to BSP might be a good call for you stock/near stock STi guys. ;)

would i be Competitive or just be sacraficed in BSP with only my air intake kit ? (guess when i learn how to drive i'de be set) :)

You sure I can run an MBC Kevin?

Edit: I'm asking if an MBC would kick me out of ESP.

Umm ... don't you already have a custom pro-tune? Why do you need an MBC?

No, it wouldn't, but it isn't going to work very well on a Subaru...

If you don't already have a custom tune, buy Scott's ECU with EKUTek licence cheap, and get one. Better than any MBC.

I have a custom tune. MBC's are bad on a stock ECU, but a good MBC should really help my boost response and isn't dangerous with a tuned map. Ed suggested it and assured me there's no need for a retune.

Thanks for the info.

What Dean said.

Well shit, with logic like that, you should just reflash back to stock and run the MBC and UniChip I've got rolling around in my workbench drawer. I'll sell it to ya for only $50!

Think of it this way: if you install a MBC and set it to say 15 psi, sure you'll run right up to 15 psi in 1st and 2nd gear as soon as possible, and you'll avoid some of that boost wobble due to the factory EBC, but you're not going to be able to taper boost at high rpms. If you think you can run a stock turbo at 15 psi at 6500 rpm in 4th gear down the backstraight at RFR all day long, I've got a 2.0L shortblock in my garage I'll sell you, 'cause you'll need it. So, you're going to have to set the MBC to say 13 psi. Granted you'll have a nice rock solid 13 psi all day in every gear (well until the weather changes and you're under the hood w/ an allen wrench), but I'd rather have that 15.5 psi when it's safe and the taper to 13 psi on the top end making sure my motor will last.

If MBC's were so great, I'm pretty sure Subaru would have put one on the car to begin with 'cause they're about 1/50th the cost of the EBC.

Prunage: http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4678

Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't an EBC and an MBC bump you into SM? Since the boost is being altered in the ECU tune, isn't that considered modifying the EBC and adding an MBC, therefore putting you into SM?

Nope, Boost is open in SP as long as turbo and wastegate are stock.

But I thought there was a rule stipulating that you could have electronic and manual means.

I haven't had time to look at the rules in detail, this was just something I remember hearing.

Think that covers it.

I RTFRB but didn't see anything about IC Hoses. Can anyone drop some knowledge on me please?

You can't do anything between the turbo inlet and the throttle body, except for the IC.. so I dunno actually.

You can touch pretty much anything you bloody want in SP now except the turbo and wastegate. Reread 15.10.c

No. It's really a non-issue for me, nothing other than the longblock is off-limits for NA cars. ;)

I'm just going to RNP this season. Given the fact that I can only race sundays. However this is a good thing, given the fact that I can't be competative I have no reason to swap in another 16 valve, so in goes the AE111's 20 valve.

I reread it again but I still don't know.

OMG... If you can change the IC, you can change the hoses....