Sorry if I came off a little harsh. Honestly I hope you get what you want out of the car. Like Sperry I just think you should jut be prepared for it not to make as much so you are not disappointed. While my reference to the bolt on for my 911 was in fact, yes just a bolt on: what modifications to your flat six did you make that exceeds the power potential of a porsche 3.6L hand built motor with forged internals?

I am no longer going to do the bet off of crank horse power. I will do it off of increase from my stock power. It is really the only realiable way to do it without pulling the engine (which I don't plan on doing). We could make the bet for a 115 increase in horse power to the wheels (keep in mind that is lot since the AT tranny robs the hell out of the horsepower). But in the end you guys are right, there is no reliable way to check crank hp without engine dynoing it so it was silly of me to be talking as if there was a way.

Btw, I am jealous of your 911, what year is it? My dad used to drive a 911 before he sold it underpriced like an idiot and his current car is a first year 350z. The 911 was a mid 90's and had little work done to it (not that it needs work done to it) and it was a sweet car. The thing is, when you buy a higher end car, there is less and less you can do for improvements. On the SVX there were TONS of room for improvements in the stock design (even back when it was released) and that makes it easier to see larger horse power gains. Obviously as I do more and more stuff to the car the already crappy money to power ratio will decrease, just like it does for your porsche. This is a list of everything that is changing for my setup from stock with a few minor things like better spark plugs etc. not included:
1) ECUtune memory adaptor and SVX Stage III software
2) ECUtune manifold, black or cast gray powder coat, core required
3) ECUtune hard fuel lines, core required
4) ECUtune throttle body adaptor, black or cast gray powder coat
5) ECUtune alternator bracket/tensioner, black powder coat
6) ECUtune tensioner, black powdercoat
7) ECUtune crank pulley, black or silver anodize
8) ECUtune 6 rib power steering pulley(actually four rib now...the six cause clearence problems), black or silver anodize
9) ECUtune machined ac compressor bracket, black powder coat, core required
10)ECUtune IAC manifold, black or silver powder coat
11)ECUtune Bypass valve manifold, black or silver powder coat
12) Whipple 1600AX supercharger
13) Whipple 4&5/16" Drive snout
14) Whipple bypass valve
15) NISMO SR20 740cc fuel injectors
16) Tomei fuel injector clips
17) Nissan maf meter (used)
18) Tomei Nissan maf meter plug
18) Gates ac compressor belt
19) Gates supercharger and power steering pump belt
20) Dayco alternator belt

And I am sorry for comming off all defensive hehe, it was late and I probably misinterpreted(wow I really am the worst speller on this planet) the tone of your post. Plus sometimes I act like a crotchety old man despite me being a youngin.

115 increased WHP to the wheels? dang i'd bet on that guys! thats' like a 2x increase in bwhp! my car doesn't even do that on race gas! (bwhp 215 -->350whp)

i dont know of a significant power increase like that unless severe internal work is done. IMO. All this talk about bet and money, i just wanna see the real thing on the dyno!

should 350 HP be abouts 250 AWHP ??? (at least assuming sti losses ) ? if you really think you are in the 400-450 HP , you should really see 250 AWHP + (esp if the tranny is good) so how about $20 on that , 250 AWHP on a mustang dyno ?

i'm new to this thread. seems like an awesome project.

brakes/wheels: have you looked into willwood? i'm not sure the model name but they have a fairly new caliper out that is made to be stuffed it in a smaller rim. give todd at tce in tempe, az a call.

have you had your exhaust made yet? if not, i would love to help you out with that. headers would be more difficult, not sure if i could gather enough time for it. but from the header back i can do. i have acess to a tig welder, and i've done summit-cut-n-weld mandrel bent tubing before. although i don't think summit has stainless tube, i know where to get it.

Just an aside when looking at brakes, I really wasn't impressed with the billet Dynalite setup I had on my car. If their new caliper is considerably beefier and has a smaller required fluid volume, it'd be worht checking out, but the Wilwood 4pots I had were underwhelming on a 3100 pound AT car, let alone a 3500 pound one; especially if you're going to revamp the braking system to remove ABS, I'd be leery just becuase the feel was so crappy and would be difficult to modulate at the limit (I just had to mash them to the floor to combat the flex and higher fluid volume and rely on the ABS to sort it out :()

Again, just my experience, but I'd never buy Wilwoods again for a number of reasons, including the caliper fnish (horrible, they turned purple on a street car with no wheel cleaners ever used) and the lack of any weather sealing whatsover; if you're running a car year-round, I'd really try to find a caliper setup with at least rudimentary dust seals.

I know it's tough to find stuff for SVX's, it might be worth looking into an '05/'06 STi front setup if it will work (I don't know how the hardpoints and offsets on the front hubs differ)

Hehe...I WISH I could say that my tranny would sap away the same amount as the STi did...but it doesn't sadly =(. The tranny in SVXi is really a giant POS and it just rapes HP which is why it is on the priority list to get changed. Like I said I will take the car and get it dynoed, then we could make the bet from there (although I don't really care about my setup making me money...I just want it on and see what it can do).

And I totally forgot about suspension, that is what will be changed after the tranny.

I would also steer clear of most Wilwood calipers. When I went out to work a race with a Grand Am Cup team last year, I noticed their front Wilwoods produced pretty horrible taper wear on the pads.