That's what I was thinking.

Of course, if someone were to modify the STI knuckles to accept Legacy GT unit hubs, then you could buy 5x100 hubs straight from Subaru, but now you've gotten rid of the benefits of using the STi's bearings unless the LGT bearings are beefier than the press-in WRX bearings.

Hmmm. Well I'm pretty much married to my decision at this point anyway. At least the passenger side won't cost anywhere near $800 as long as I do it preemptively.

went to Metal Masters today. He quoted me about $260-$280 depending on color, to do all 4 of my wheels. I say that's not too bad. Imma get it done this week.

What a pussy. Austin go to Summit Racing and buy the powder coating kit. IIRC they have a whole selection of colors and you can do it yourself OR have someone help you and split the cost of the gun.

We can fab up a whole booth and everything to do it up right. There are probably a bunch of people who would get in on that if one person did it successfully. I know I would be in. I have a set of wheels we can test it on. Do it for the clubs.

Actually I can help you swap out the other bearing if you stop by with the spindle assembly. I've got a press, and Cory will probably be able to help get the inner race off when it inevitably sticks to the outer hub if he's not incredibly busy.

Kevin where do you work?

I don't. I just happen to have a press in my garage.

Thanks Kevin, that's generous and tempting, but I think I'll just take it to Cory since it's doing some weird things and most likely needs an alignment too.

You'd need an alignment either way, but I can still save you some cash. :)

You're speaking my language anyway.

But I'm scurred.

http://www.revo1.com/subbiebearing/images/IMG_8304.jpg

You can never have too much lube.

Do you have a pickle fork?

^ You clearly have no idea what you're talking about.

Er, nevermind, I guess I don't need one?

This.

Your mom knows what I'm talking about.

A mom joke from Kevin? I guess you are out of arrows.

I use this tool to remove ball joint. Kragen have one for rent.

Ball joint remover

That quote from Gary is the way to go!

I didn't feel like escalating given the subject.

Sure, bow out gracefully.

When danger rears its

Did they say how long it normally takes? I have a set that needs done and the tires need replaced so now would be the best time to do it.

he said about a week maybe less.

I just spoke to Guy at Metal Master and their current rate for each 16X6.5 alloy wheel is $65+powder (nominal and varies depending on color)+tax. Any other places I can try? I really wanted to go to them since I was expecting them to have the exact color/gloss I chose on file, but they don't. :unamused:

They did do a great job the first time though. I just wish it was still $35/wheel + tax.

What about that garageworks guy?

This guy? http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthre...t=garage+works

Looks like he details cars. Does he powdercoat too?

Edit: Nevermind. Found this thread: http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthre...t=garage+works

I'll find out his rate.

Garage Works quoted me $60/wheel. Any other suggestions?

Make sure whoever's doing it is also blasting and degreasing the wheel before powdercoating in the included price. Prep work is usually by far the most expensive part of the process. It would suck to pay $60/wheel or something PLUS 5 hours of prep labor!

I checked and both quotes includes all prep including stripping existing paint and they have no problem keeping the PC off the mating surface/lug seats (like Metalmasters did the first time). I'm leaning toward going to a legitimate business that I've worked with before but I'm going to call any other powder coaters in Reno I can find on Google tomorrow.

Suggest he do it for $50 a wheel?

Do not bother calling The Powder Man (aka Garate Enterprises). He is the best and least expensive in Reno, but he absolutely will not do aluminum wheels for liability reasons.

$60 each seems reasonable to me. This isn't the third world... yet anyway.

I was wondering if the powdercoating process could have actually allowed the damage. Anyone think that heating my OEM wheels during the cooking part of the powdercoating process could have weakened the wheels? It's obvious that the wheel took a blow since it's got an impact bend, but the stress crack (see OP pic) makes the wheel appear brittle.

You know that aluminum *is* brittle regardless of heating, right? That's why the rally guys like to run steel control arms over the aluminum ones... bending an arm = finishing the stage. Aluminum doesn't like to bend.

I do. :)

You like to bend? :?:

I was answering the question he asked me. Wake up Matt! :P

Oh, 10-4.... I think I'm going to put a good paint job on my stock wheels instead, I've had success with that before.

Got a quote of $75/wheel from some other place. I'll take them to Metal Master tomorrow.

wonder if they will do a bundle discount if you give them 8 wheels? I have a set that needs done. What color are you doing?

20% black. The lower the percentage, the more flat. Higher percentage is more gloss. I'm only doing 2 wheels though so it would be 6. I'd be happy to ask though, even if they're different colors. Let me know.

Pshh. That's your problem right there.

You're my problem right meow.