The Best Cobb Default Map to Use...
 

After a few years of rollinf stock I'm finally diving into the HP upgrades. So far I've got a Prodrive intake and a Prodrive axle back. And my AP is on it's way.

I'm in CA and get crappy CA fule. Any of you know what the best map from Cobb's site would be best to go with until I can get a protune?

Stage 1 is for Stock Vehicles with 91 octane fuel but, Stage 2 Requires turboback exhaust.

What you y'all think?

stg 1... you dont have the required mods for stg 2 you could screw shit up pretty bad if you flashed it.

I dont think stage 1 or 2 is setup for an intake.

Take off the intake and run CA Stage 1 or get a custom tune with the intake.

+1, but get a DP (and optionally an UP) before the custom tune. The intake will not gain you much, if anything on the stock or any medium sized turbo.

You also might consider selling the intake and putting that towards more exhaust bits. The axleback does nothing but make noise, but a decent TBE would do way more good than an intake, especially when combined with the AP.

The axleback does become a slight restriction on an otherwise "Stage 2" WRX.

+1 for sell the intake to buy DP/UP.

In general these guys are right about aftermarket intakes along with stage maps. But the Prodrive intake is a pretty good design that supposedly matches the stock MAF curve within 4 or 5%, so it might be okay.

What's the point of an intake if it matches the stock flow? Noisemaker?

Theoretically, it could pose less restriction and still not skew the MAF readings...but even if that's the case, on a stage 2 WRX, the stock intake is not a restriction.

I agree... the only time to go to an intake is when you're maxing out the MAF. Then you go to something like a BigMAF that requires retuning for the new MAF curve in order to get more flow and stay within the MAF's voltage range.

A CAI that doesn't require retuning is a waste of money, even if it flows better, since it's not the bottleneck anyway until you've run out of MAF voltage on the stock sensor.

I do run a CAI. I sealed my stock airbox to the hole in the fender.

You realize the snorkus is the best CAI setup for that airbox, right? Maybe removing the milk-jug and sealing that off would help flow a bit... but the air from the snorkus should be as cold as it gets... I'm not sure the air in the fender is better.

My snorkus still blows cold air into the other hole in the fender well.

Just because an intake matches the stock MAF/Volts curve does not mean it flows the same as far as restriction goes. All that is basically required for the stock flow curve is a straight pipe of 65mm inside diameter with non-turbulent flow (easier said than done), but the rest of the intake could have less restriction by being shorter, having fewer bends, having a less restrictive filter, having no drastic changes in volume, etc. I am quite confident that the Prodrive CAI has much less pressure drop across it than the stock filter/housing/snorkus/silencer/elbows. And less pressure drop at the intake (especially at altitude) will result in more power and maybe a little better spool (mainly if it is tuned for)

But yeah, I think that buying an intake at Stage 1 or 2 is not the best buy. The money would be much better spent on a DP. But the OP already has the intake, and it's a pretty good one.

CAI's can add power to stage 2 if they are designed right. FWIW... Buschur Racing comparison of drop-in K&N vs. CAI (very similar to Prodrive's):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...WITHintake.jpg

The car was tuned a little, but the MAF curve was not altered. I trust this comparison (for the most part) because this is where Buschur was evaluating whether he wanted to even bother selling intakes for Subies.

Intake is less then week old. I'm not going to sell it.

Return it?

Ahh no. I'm not in the mood to take it out of the car. I rather get a map that works with it.

Then you are looking at a custom tune IMHO.

Do you have a laptop and/or logging software (free)? If so, then it is easy to check if the intake is doing bad things in conjunction with the Cobb stage 1 CA-91 map. I bet it will be okay - not optimal, but okay.

I think you'd really need to check your AFR's more than anything. That requires the use of a wideband...but logging certainly wouldn't hurt.

True, but... for part throttle and idle - the fuel trims can be checked. For full throttle just log some pulls and watch for knock, pulled timing, etc. Also can check periodically that the IAM is not tanking (and this maybe doable just with the AP). Much better than doing nothing, but knowing AFR's would be best.

Um, great? Who said sell it? I just said it wasn't useful, except as a noisemaker. It would go great with a BOV.

And Matt, I realize that you can get better flow w/o screwing the MAF readings out of a properly designed CAI, but my point was that until you're actually maxing out the MAF voltage and/or needing the larger intake volume because you're making that much power, the stock intake/airbox is not a bottleneck. Basically, if you're on a stock turbo, you don't *need* anything more than the stock intake. And if you're not tuning the car, then a CAI will gain you nothing, and likely be a risk.

Without a wideband, logging is mostly useless. It will tell you how bad it is in closed loop, but not the all important open loop which is where you can kill an engine.

If the MAF voltage is telling the ECU there is less air than there actually is, which is likely with an after market CAI, you are looking at a lean condition in open loop which is what makes things go boom!

I spent many hours of logging trims and my wideband data to tweak my intake calibration to get my Injen sorted out pretty well.

If you insist on keeping the CAI, get a tune for it.