Hey, No problem, I guess we'll stick with our plan to run the ford fluid this weekend...

Also, Pat said we can work on the cars at his shop here in Sparks. Theres tons of room there, and we can work on them all at once. He also has most tools, so unless you've got some special tool you need, we should be covered. Scott, kevin, whoever, do you guys want to go to Pats shop to work on stuff tonight...? I do.

Works for me. Does he have all the necessary tools for swaping brake pads, i.e. lube and a clamp and stuff? Hell, is it an auto shop? Can we turn my rotors? :twisted:

Well, It's not an auto shop, its his sign and barricade shop, but he has a lot of tools. PAT?

I'm a barricade repairman- I have the ultimate set of tools!

I should have everything needed to swap pads (jack, wrenches, torque wrench, c-clamps) I ony have one set of jack stands so if we to do more than one car at a time somebody needs to bring some.
I have a can of anti-seize lube, isn't that the same as the anti-squeal stuff?
I also don't have a hose for bleeding brakes so we'll need that too.

Cool, I'll just put together a light box of tools, with my bleeder hose and bring my jack and stands as well. We'll have more than enough tools to get the job done.

Pat, do you have air tools there? They're not necessary, but they can make pulling the calipers off a lot easier!

air tools, si.

w00t.

What time will you all be down there? Could I crash the party and install the PCV (?) Valve and my fuel filter?

I'm thinking 5 PM. Come on down!

Where's the shop?

On Wolverine, off Glendale....

From your house.
Get to McCarran going towards Sparks.
Turn Left on Glendale
2nd right hand turn at Sears Building. Go to End, You'll see
Traffic Control Systems
next to mr Z's muffler shop.

BTW, I'll be there by like 5:30

Can I bring Milkshakes?

I have spare Ford fluid(The good stuiff!) :P , and bleader stuff I can bring if you need it...

Out of curiosity...how many quarts do you need? 3?

System holds right about 10-12 ounces IIRC, so one Ford bottle is just enough, but I like to use a bit more... 2 tops

Surely!

We should go to El Rosal for dinner and see how badly they can destroy Scott's digestive system! :lol:

Ojay, I'll pick up 4 bottles to cover me, matt, and Scott... anybody else want some?

Bleed order reminder...

Remember WRXs are weird...

Front Right
Rear Left
Front Left
Right Rear...

And even if you have speed bleeders, the best method to finish each corner is with 2 people...

"Driver" pumps the brakes up to pressure and pushes down with bleeder closed.

"Brake guy" cracks the bleeder slightly until fluid flows and retightens before driver's foot bottoms out.

Driver should always Pedal slowly...

Pat's the Man!
 

Pat, besides being a generous Hoosier-crack-pipe-pusher, the mini install/modfest at your shop worked out really well. Thanks!
8 cars, I think, with repairs & maintenance & mods on Friday.

Cars & cars

cones are pretty (until I get my pink ones...) :lol:

subtle looks, and sounds great!

.. someone has new whee eels ....

whoa I can't wait to see the EVO.

Re: Pat's the Man!
 

It was a good time and the start of an all-around great weekend! Maybe next time we can all enjoy a salad afterward. :)

That wasn't just Hoosier crack I was dealing- you can't resist the pull of S2000 crack forever! :twisted:

I have a feeling that replacing a wheel stud is going to be a lot harder than installing a swaybar was.

Scott, you left your little service manual booklet, would you like me to hold on to it for you?

Re: Pat's the Man!
 

Unless it is a weird hub assembly, it should be cake... You may not even have to take off the caliper/rotor..

1. Get a replacement stud, wheel nut, and a normal flat face nut and washer in the same thread as the stud.

2. Take off the wheeel. Hopefully there is at least one spot on the hub where a stud can slip out the back without having to disassemble the bloody thing.

3. You are going to need hammer, preferably soft metal, and heavy, and a deep socket that fits the flat nut you got, and an impact wrench...

4. Line up the broken stud with the "hole" if necessary, andbang it out.

5. Slip the new one in, lining up the splines as close as possible.

6. Put the washer on, and then the flat nut.

7. Verify the spline alignment and tighten with hand tools to start sucking the stud into hub.

8. Suck it in the rest of the way with the impact wrench. Don't over do it. The rear of the stud shou.d fee the same as the others, and the front should be as long as the others.

9. Undo the flat nut and washer and reinstall wheels, and torque as normal.

10. Recheck torque after a quick jaunt, and then again after a day or so.

damn I wish I could have made it to this.

alas I was out of town.

Re: Pat's the Man!
 

Keep it, toss it, light it on fire, I care not... I printed it from the CD I've got, so I can print it again it necessary, not that I would need to since I know how to do the brakes now anyway.

Re: Pat's the Man!
 

I had the parts dude print out the exploded drawing of the rear rotor / hub ass'y and it looks like I'll have to take off either the caliper or the heat shield to get access to the back of the hub. I was worried that I would have to remove the hub from the end of the axle. Should be a piece of cake...

Re: Pat's the Man!
 

:lol:
until I saw your sig .... :lol: :lol: :lol: