Oil Change
 

Hey Kids, I just changed my oil 5 minutes ago with Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 and I was just wondering if any of you are using the same. I figured since we all live in the same climate id ask if you step it up to 10w30 in the winter or just leave it at 5w30?

i use 10w30 all the time. i just allow myself more time for warm ups.

You have it backwards- if you're going to switch you want 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer. But with good synthetics, either one works if you're not up at the lake or ski resorts most mornings.

I don't change to any lighter or heavier up in Truckee but I have a garage both at work and at home.

Thanks BAN SUVS, so then my question is to anyone who hasnt already answered. Does anyone use 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter?

I used to use 0w30 in the winter and 5w30 in the summer. Now I use 5w30 year round, the slight mileage increase with the 0w30 isn't worth possible extra wear on the engine to me.

Anything from 0w30 to 15w50 (in the summer) seems to work just fine in our cars. The 15w50 is a little thick... but should be a little safer in the heat. On the other hand, I've been told that the 15w50 will actually generate *more* heat because it's so thick... go figure.

Either way, Mobil1 10w30 or 5w30 should be great in your car... it's not like your motor is seeing extreme conditions like endurance or drag racing.

That said, I use 10w30 RedLine in my car when it's working right, and Mobil1 5w30 or 10w30 (whatever WalMart's got in stock in the big cans) when I'm leaking lots of oil (since it sucks to waste $9 per quart that ends up in my catch cans).

Hah, yeah I'm the same way 5w30 or 10w30 based on which one I can find.

I've noticed its slightly harder to get the car started with 10w30 in the winter, and the temperature needle is slightly lower in all season (but more pronounced in the winter). Other than that, it seems like there is not much of a difference. The manual states (at least for the Legacy) that 5w30 or 10w30 is recommended based on climate and altitude. For our climate, I think either will be just fine.

I do. Not only is it hotter in the summer, but AutoX is during the summer. The manual says to use 10-30 for ambient temps above 100*F and/or heavy use, otherwise use 5-30. Mobil-1 in the 5 qt container at Walmart FTW.

Mobil-1 Costco 6qt Pak FTW

I think last time I figured it out, the 5 jug Wal-mart bottle was cheaper per quart than the 6 pack case at Costco.

I bet the price is pretty similar. But the costco is convenient because then you have an extra qt for between oil changes.

Really? I always thought having a big jug with the right amount of oil is more convenient than having an extra quart and a bunch of little bottles that are a PITA to fill up w/ used oil for drop off at Kragen.

Unless I'm changing the oil in the SVX, where a 5qt jug isn't enough oil. But then again, I buy 12 packs of Castrol for the SVX.

^ Oh i dont have to worry about that, I just pour it into my neighbors garden. Just like God said, "Blood and Oil are to be poured out on the ground"

Was God talking about Iraq?

Mobile 1 shouldnt have any negative effects on the engine should it? There are threads all over NASIOC and other forums saying that owners have had problems with Mobile 1. Most just state that there is a bigger problem at hand and using Mobile 1 in just a coincidence. Any negative effects from anyone here?

FYI I just changed my oil over to Mobile 1 5w30 synth. Is there anything special I'm supposed to do since I switched from conventional, like change it earlier than 3000?

I've been using Mobil1 since I bought my car over 60k miles ago. No problems that I could possibly attribute to the oil. If anything you can change it less often than 3000 miles. I do mine at 5000, and there has been testing done that indicates even up to 8000 miles is still safe. The filter is usually the weak point when using synthetic oil.

Yah, lots of spun bearings, but everyone on the forums use M-1 so it could just be a coincidence. I switched over to Royal Purple after reading the test results below and I got a good deal on a couple cases shipped to me. I'm running 5-30 in the winter and 10-30 in the summer.

Which reminds me. A 5qt jug of M-1 is $19.99 at Walmart rolled back from $23.99.

Well, thanx for posting those test results...maybe I will change my synthetic after my next oil change...

While we are on the topic, do you guys burn any oil? How much per change? I burn about a half qt per 3000. I also have 87,000 miles.

^My motor consumes about the same.

Hey Cody, where did that oil test come from?

Mine eats a little more than that.

http://streetcommodores.com/

Here's the front page:

after reading all of that im ditching mobil 1 for RP. great now im all wigged out and probably going to change my oil this week :mad:

So do you still have to change your oil as frequently with Royal Purple? Because there is a small price difference..


I guess if you buy the 5 gallon drum from Royal Purple it works out to being about $12 more per oil change compared to Mobil 1.

This brings me to another question. What oil filters does everyone use? I imagine if those of you who are using royal purple then you have stepped up your filter as well?

Actually, the stock Subaru filters (made by Purlator) are pretty good. I still use them.

Current definitive Subaru oil filter info at least in terms of internal construction.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16252

Basically, OEM is the winner.

The limiting factor in changing your oil is the filter. Most synthetic oils protect well into the 10K mile range and beyond but your filter may clog before then. I haven't been able to find the bigger OEM WRX filters (made by Purolater as Nick pointed out). They made it smaller so it wouldn't absorb as much radiant heat from the header but mine are heat wrapped...

A larger filter should be able to last longer without clogging so I think I'll be switching to the Mobil-1 M-110 or M-108 in the future. The M-110 is twice as tall though and I wouldn't want to risk scraping it on something. That would suck. Amsoil supposedly makes a good oil filter too.

+1 on the OEM Purolators.

Though, I'm using the K&N ones because I use a larger Ford fitment filter on a remote setup.

If your engine's cold, you can just change the filter with a loss of less than half a quart. I will be doing 4k on filters and 8k on oil once I actually have a damn running car again.

Oh and another +1 for OEM filters.

Do you guys just buy the OEM filters in bulk then?

Yeah, I've got about 5-6 sitting on my shelf at the moment.

ok cool. I have always just picked up the fram filters at walmart for my other cars. Is something wrong with that filter?

I think the Fram ones are okay. But, I believe they are more expensive, no? The OEM ones are only $6 or $8, and the Fram ones were closer to $10.

Actually, the Fram filters are very cheap, and very crappy. Unless you're buying the more expensive Fram filters (the $8+ DoubleGuard, etc) ones, you're really not protecting the motor well.

Really, the OEM filters are the best setup.

Oh yeah, I was only thinking about the nicer fram filters. I forgot all about the crappy cheap-ass ones they make for like $4 or whatever.

I haven't shopped for filters in probably 3 years. Now, I just go down to Subaru, but 4-5 OEM filters and let them sit on my shelf.

So I've been told, but it sounds messy and even too cheap for me.

OEM is not Purolator. It is Tokyo Roki Co. Ltd.

If you didn't find it my last link, this is the spreadsheet that has all sorts of good stuff about the different filters.

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/oi...il_filters.xls

There are some good cheap ones, but the OEM is damn good.

Oh, and if you are sick of those stupid aluminum crush washers, get a reusable plastic/nylon or copper one at any auto parts store.

Hmm, yeah I guess you are right. I hadn't taken a close look at the 2.5L turbo filters, which are indeed Tokyo Roki.

Subaru does use Purolator as an OEM supplier, though, for their non-turbo filters (and I could swear the early versions of the 2.0l OEM oil filter was also Purolator).

Either way, its almost a moot point because in both scenarios, the OEM beats out most standard replacement filters.

Better yet, get a Fumoto valve.

So I guess I'll be trying out some Royal Purple tonight.

I've been meaning to try it, but laziness and walbogs have kept me with the more available Mobile 1. Anyway, the walbogs near my house ended up having some Royal Purple. 5qts left, to be exact. And now, no qts left.

Yeah, a $25 valve that may leave more sludge and deposits in the bottom of the pan sounds like a great alternative to a $0.25 washer and is sure to get the approval of Señor Cheap Bastard. :rolleyes:

Tell you what, the next time I drain my oil with the Fumoto, after the oil stops dripping, I'll pull the valve out and see how much additional sludge drips out.

Cool. It all depends on if the threads on the valve are deeper than the threads on the pan. I like the idea, but can imagine all sorts of bad things that might happen with it as well as the price.

Use a measuring cup or something to see how much. A cut open quart bottle works as well if it has that clear bit at the seam.

I'll buy you one if it's more than a tablespoon... :) I've also seen them "modded" by cutting a v at the bottom side of the threads.

Deal. And if it is less than a tablespoon, I'll buy you a $0.25 washer. :) And something greasy at a meet. :)

I'm really curious.