could i pass tech with (car audio tech)
 

a setup like this in my trunk if? all bolted down of course or would i have to take it all out every time?

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6.../untitled1.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6.../untitled2.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...x/untitled.jpg

Why would you want to race with the added weight? Usually people want their cars to be lighter...

+1 Very Very clean setup !!

:) IMIO (In My Ignorant opinion) If its securely bolted down it will pass tec, But Cory does the Tec and could tell you for sure.

Added weight will slow you down though it looks like you have maybe ~25# of stuff. unless you are showing up at the autoX almost out of gas, adding enough for other runs (and enough to get home) i wouldn't worry about 25#. Then again I'm slow on course so ... :P maybe listen more to someone who is fast ;)

Some people do use their cars for other stuff besides autox you know.:P

It's fine. Bolted in, in the trunk, and not a NOS bottle = Pass...

Doesn't mean it will stay there though. Be aware that some bolted in "speaker boxes" have been known to break loose under the cornering loads.

Small sheet metal screws into thin metal <> "bolted in" for heavy items like big magnet subs. Bolts have corresponding nuts and lock washers and such.

it would be bolted to the bottom of the trunk. ill probably take it out for autox but i was just wondering incase i had one of those busy weekends where i dont have time to take it out.

johnny hit the nail on the head. are you going to stead today johnny?

Fortunately my sub pops right out so I always remove it now. I left it in for a track day once and it took a trip across my trunk.

I still want to put my stereo back in, but i don't know if i ever will
mostly cause hearing loss / hearing damage sucks


and mine weights enough that I lost of gas millage in my WRX after i had it installed. LoL

I'de just sell it, but I've got the 'made in america' Phoenix Gold Amps. Who knows if any american amp company will be that good, ever again. :( (i always get a lil sad when i think of how their new models are just pieces of crap made over seas like everything else)


Anywho, what kinda RMS does your amp put out ?

If it's SECURELY bolted in, it should be fine. Rest assured I'll check it out well and make sure it's not going anywhere tho!

i dont have it yet. thats the custom box im buying.
im gonna run a 12 inch alpine type-R and the amp needs to push 500 rms so does anyone have suggestions on a pocket friendly amp that will push that much?

Are you going to get a D2 or D4 sub?

probably d2 is there a reason to go d4? since the sound guys here i guess ill ask :lol:

I had 2 12" Type R D4s each with their own MRD-M605 amp. I loved how it sounded and the amp was pretty small I guess.

how hard did they hit? im looking for good sounding but i want some impact too.

im going with d4s btw my buddy said they sound better.

They are awesome. They are some of the cleanest sounding subs I have ever had and they hit pretty damn hard. Which is always what I have looked for in subs. I dont care about spl or if someone a mile down the street can hear me. I want it to punch hard like someone is hitting you in the head with an ice chest. I think you will be satisfied with this. Ask STI GUY he has them now.

Pocket friendly and 500 rms ? hmmf. see if you can find a phoenix gold TI or ZPA on like ebay or some shop that isn't out of them. i think Zapco are good quality too but i've never bumped one of those .

http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/titaniumamps.html

none of that is really pocket friendly though ... :\
these are priced okay

http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/rsdamps.html

Maybe go Dual 4ohms , and find a mono block stable @ 2 ohms


that amp is 600 RMS @ 2 ohms , :) good 2 go

http://www.bestwebbuys.com/electroni...?isrc=e-search
http://focuscamera.com/prods/964698140.asp

600 RMS at 2 ohm. how good are those speakers ?
if the sub says 500 peak, get the next sub down

There is no difference in sound between a D2 and D4 sub. You could give both subs 500w and they will sound the same. Your friend apparently is not someone to take advice from. I only asked so I could recommend an amp that will power it at the proper impedance load. If you get a D2 sub, you can choose an amp that puts out it's max power at either 1 or 4 ohms. With a D4 sub you'll want an amp designed for max power at 2 ohms.

What's your budget for an amp? Do you want something you can purchase locally, or are you OK with buying online?

Nope.

little late :lol:

2 ohms it is then. im fine with buying on the net. im installing it as well.

i have a question. im thinking of upgrading my front components as well. would it work to get a 4 channel and run the components off of 2 channels then bridge the other 2 to run the sub. would this work? if it would id be willing to spend more on the amp instead of buying 2 cheepies. im planning on keeping the rears stock just for fill and running them off of the HU. its an Alpine btw. dont remember the model ill figure it out and get back to you.

Budget?

say no more than 400 for the amp. same alpine type R 12 inch D4 sub then either some JBL GTO607C components (100 rms)($200), polk db6500 components(70 rms)($170) or boston acoustics SX60 components (65 rms)($225) any other suggestions? i dont want something that is gonna be to sharp sounding i like my ears to not bleed haha. mostly listen to rap and some hardcore.

say 1000-1200 total budget for a decent system. not necesarily award winning just nice.

btw the sub and box are a total of about 450 shipped. add the BA componet set up that leaves me with about 500 bucks at the most but hoping to spend less than that.

^ I had a pair of the Polk db6500 and the tweets were screaming loud. I have a set of the apline type R components now and I like them better.

i was thinking of those too. the 260$ price tag kinda shunned me away but i guess if im gonna do it i might as well do it better? are you going to the meet tomorrow id like to hear them if you are if that would be ok?

I think I will be going. If not maybe you can hear them some other time. like when I beg you to use your lift to aid in changing my trans fluid ;) ;) ;)

Side note: I have bought 3 pairs of type R components off of ebay and the most I paid was $99. I can help you find some good used ones. I have done it 3 times and have never gotten screwed. And thats only with the speakers, not to mention all the other used stuff I have found.

Even Brand new they are only about $130
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Alpine-SPR-1...QQcmdZViewItem

With $400 there's plenty of good amp choices. I like the JL and the PG Xenon, because they are so flexible. You can change subs and not have to worry about switching amps because they put out the same power at any impedance. The Alpine PDX is tiny, a good choice if it's going under a seat or if you want to cut down on weight.

JL 500/1
PG Xenon x600.1
Alpine MRD-605
Alpine PDX-1.600
Diamond D3 800.1
Memphis MCD500.1

what about a 4 channel that i can bridge 2 channels to power the sub?

im putting the amp in the spar tire well or on the back of the back seat like in the pictures so size isnt an issue. id rather run one expensive amp to power the components and the sub instead of 2 because id have trouble finding space for 2 amps.

juice your welcome to the lift anytime. we just finished pooring the stem wals today. figure about a month and itll be good to go.

is there anything wrong with a rockford fostgate p3? that ebay store has one for 99$ compared to like 250-300 everywhere else WTF

I thought you already bought the Type-R? I've never been a fan of the newer RF subs.

no i havent bought it yet. just my highest choice. havnet bought anything yet only the HU that was given to me.

IMHO the new RF subs have sacraficed sq so they can wrattle the doors a little more. I have heard them before and they make a lot of noise. I wouldnt buy them for me.

for me SQ > SPL

Then you should go for the Type-X, that's a really nice SQ sub. They Type-R is more of a 50/50 mix, sounds pretty good but can get really loud too. Another sub that sounds really nice is the Dayton Reference series. They only run $130 or so for a 12", and they are very nice, well built subs. Free shipping right now as well.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=295-466

Another option would be one of the TC sounds subs, like a TC-1000. At $169 it's a little more expensive than the Dayton, but still a really good deal compared to what you get from the mainstream companies for the same price.

http://tcsounds.com/tc1000.htm

Sorry, I missed this before. A four channel amp that will bridge to 500-600 watts is going to be very expensive, and it's going to be a lot of power for the front channels as well. Which is OK, if you are careful with the gains. But you're going to need around a 150x4 amp to get 600w for the sub, and not too many amps will do that in your price range. I think you'd be better off with two separate amps. If you could get by with 300-400 watts for the sub, then there is a lot more choices.

so would one of those TCsounds subs be a good option?

They are very nice sounding subs, well built and can handle some abuse. Every review that I've seen has been favorable.

I know it's not as powerful as what you're looking for, but I run my fronts and a single JL sub off of a JL 300/4. It was pretty cheap off Ebay. Unfortunately I'm still running the stock HU and crappy Kenwood Exceleron Dual Mag front speakers. :(

im not dead set on the Type R. the only reason i was set on the 500rms is because the type r called for 500 rms and i dont want any clipping. if these tc sounds subs run off a lower rms then thats better for me.

There are acoustic differences between 4Ohm and 2Ohm voice coil subwoofers, because it affects the coil size and position. This affects the Free air resonsance frequency, that affects everything else you need to design a good speaker box. Unless you don't design your box based upon Fs, Qes, Qtc, and overall desired Q factor,

In which case you are just dumping a speaker into a box becuase you "think" it will sound good. instead of knowing exactly what your box will be tuned to, what type of frequency response curve you will end up with..

That's completely wrong !!

just look at the dual voice coil 4 ohm and 2 ohm Xenon here under Fs and Qes and you will see what i mean : ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Man...ofermanual.pdf

My old systems were
4 Olympic warrior 10" in a .808 Q box (tuned really really low usually good for overall sound quality) but those were special small enclosure subs and i was able to tune them to 47 Hz (great for rap listerns)

My next box was a Band pass box tuned for spl (overall Q ratio of 1.2 ish) that was also tuned to 47 Hhz, It took 1st place in the area 51 car comp in carson (like 5 or 7 years ago) hitting 138 DBs in a honda prelude si :)

then i went with my new system and setup a box to be tuned to 35 Hz with a low Q and hated it big time. ( i listen to less rap then before) but that's just too low for most of my music, i recaculated and decided to take out .8 cubic feet of air, i did that by glueing blocks of wood into my box. Now it sounds much better, but the box alone weights like 90 lbs... (with out the sub) i hate the orientation too. so i'm just waiting till i decide to 'do it right'

if you want some help figuring out response curves, tuning Fs, and what not , lmk i'll need to find some specs on the speaker you are going to by, and what type of music you like, what type of bass you like. :)

you can probably find some tools online. I wrote some to design sealed boxes, a long long time ago. like 96' its in Basic or something and i pretty damn sure i've lost them by now. lol

dont go with a p3, they crack right down the middle when powered "properly" i heve seen it happen twice (people that i know) and when "powered properly" meaning powered at the recommended limit. i dont know about the new 2007 p3s but if you want it to hit you hard spend some money and get a T1
plus D4 is a little easier to buy an amp for cause its easier to make one that is four ohms. they will both sound the same. the profile amp is no brand name but will work just as well as any of the brand name orr higher priced amps will. a little less money put into the amp and more in the sub would be my conclusion. unless you are looking for cosmetic as well. the quality of the lower end amps are still good. they all have to pass the same inspections....
hope this helps

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthr...ght=custom+box

that is the thread that im thinking about getting my box from.

I would be happy with a 50/50 mix cause sometimes i like to get it loud as well. just aslong as ints not 100% SPL.

here are the specs on the type-r
» 12" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils
» Kevlar® reinforced pulp cone with Santoprene rubber surround
» cast aluminum frame with perimeter venting
» frequency response: 23-500 Hz
» power handling: 200-500 watts RMS (250 watts per coil)
» peak power: 1,500 watts
» sensitivity: 85 dB
» top-mount depth: 7-5/8"
» sealed box volume: 0.57-1.0 cu. ft.

im gonna bring this one back to life.

that box i was looking at no one can give me a exact internal volume so im probably going to end up using a regular style box which opens some things up. Instead of the 1 12 i was thinking of 2 10s or maybe try something different and go with 4 8s :sneaky: if you mount subwoofers directly at eachother they cancel out correct? what about mounting them facing each other like this \ / instead of | |. these would be facing towards the inside of the trunk mounted on the sides along with the 2 subs that were rear firing. would that be way too much turbulence? the 8 inch subs i was looking at are Image Dynamics ID8 v3 D2 subs http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID8V3D2

another option:
How hard is fiberglassing? measuring my spare tire area I could fiberglass an enclosure to fit all of them there. and still be removable.

cory made me realize that my car is already ridiculously fast so i decided to make it a little more comfortable/enjoyable.

I doubt you would be happy with 4 8s. Also I have personally tested several sub angles in a trunk and firing towards each other even at an angle doesnt sound the best. Pointed to the rear sounded best.

well i measured my trunk cause i cant sleep and i found out i can go 33x13x13 and fit all 3 rear firing with .765 cubic feet per sub with each sub divided from the others. that would be using 3/4 inch MDF

the fit would actually be perfect with about .5 of an inch on each side of the box between the side of the trunk and i would still maintain MORE THAN HALF of my trunk space. hows that for luck. :sneaky:

i did some reading and a bunch of people recommended the Image Dynamics ID10 v3 D2 sub.http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID10V3D2
then run it off of a power acoustik PS1-2000D mon amp @ 2 ohms. should feed 300 rms to each sub which is the recommended rms so that makes me happy too. http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWPS12000D

I can actually build the box myself so that will be about 40$ in materials then the subs are about 400 then 200 for the amp + 60 for the amp kit im at 700$ and have some extra money for something nifty like this http://www.cardomain.com/item/JENVM9412

^your links are so borked

sup, good find on the data !

I'm not so sure on that speaker It does tune down amazingly low for such small air space (and being a 10) , but at some of the lower tunings the F3 appears to be above the Tuning point. F3 is the point where the box loses half of its loudness .

at .95 Cubic feet i'm seeing a 45.1 hz and a 45 Hz so its tuned to the F3 ... :| I'm not sure if specs are off a lil or what because their website shows different tuning data . i need to find a few other companies with specs out and recommended boxes with specs and see if the program i'm using is off, or if Image Dynamics is fudging its tuning points a bit.

when i've compared other companies its usually right on (such as pioneer)

At .64 cubic feet (.8 Q) the box will be tuned to 51, with a F3 of 46 that's Much better. now its tuned to a point where it isn't at half volume. :)

and the F3 didn't move much

At .46 Cubic feet (.9 Q) its tuned to 58 hz, with an F3 of 48. an ever larger spread :) .

that's probably a touch high for rap music.

at .39 Cubic feet (1.0 Q) its tuned to 64 with an F3 of 50

at .26 Cubic feet (1.2 Q) its tuned to 77 with an F3 of 56




maybe go with this sub, this is a Crazy steal

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

but you will need a lot of power if you want to push 3 of them.

.42 Cubic feet (1.2 Q) would tune to 48, with an F3 of 35 !!!. now that's more of what you want. that sub will need like 400 rms / 800 peak though ... maybe more. its power hungry.

3 of those with 1200 rms ... yeah that would be loud :lol:

How did i come up with that you may ask ? its easy I"m sure you already know all the math, just some new formulas

Box Tuned Frequency
Qtc is the over all Q Ratio i was talking about before

Fc= (Qtc)(Fs)/Qts

Box Volume is a little more tricky
You find the constant for that speaker and That overall Q (Qtc)

Constant = ((Qtc/Qts)^2 ) -1


then Constant = Vas / Vb (both must be the same so if Liters keep liters, if cubic feet, keep cubic feet)

:)

those pheonix golds are sweet. sounds more like what id be looking for.

i measured some stuff out last night and it might be inda difficult to go with the 2 rear firing in the spare tire area. it would be really hard to fit them there. where else would be a good spot? the 2 @ 800rms seems like it would be enough 3 @ 1200rms might make me lose my hearing haha.

what about this amp alex?
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...44239234235236

it would be more than enough for 2 10s and if i decided to be cool and run 3 it would stull support it.

then run like a 2 farad cap?