Front Swaybar
 

I'm currently running a 22 mm Perrin front swaybar. I'm thinking of going bigger. Anybody with two cents to spare have at it.

What front sway does Cody use? unless that's like top secret info :P

25.4 Cobb or Hotchkis hollow: Good with heavy sprung coil overs. A little stiffer than your current.
28/29mm adjustable Whiteline. (Not convinced a human can tell the difference between 28 & 29 personally)
32mm Strano.

There may be a solid 25 or 26 out there, but why?

If you are not going with stiff springs to help, your objective is to keep the front end geometry from the dreaded Positive camber land when the arm goes above parallel and the body rolls and your outdise front ends up with +2 degrees of camber or so, so bigger is better.

The biggest downside will be in the rutted winter roads where you may the ability for the fronts to follow the contours. Though it is only about a 1 - 2 hour swap depending on skill and tools. A shop with a rack could probably do it in 30 minutes.

If you are going big, I'd do the Strano.

aka the baseball bat. if you go big and wanna swap for winter man your more than welcome to use my lift.

I use the stock bar with Kartboy endlinks. My car has to work in the winter too. An adjustable front would be nice though.

I hate the 32mm front sway bar.

Quoted for I F*ing agree!

I can't tell if this is installer's remorse, or simple bar envy rearing it's ugly head. :)

The first one.

I wouldn't go as far as remorse, but definitely hatred... :P

HEY! Get your ass to work!

LOL, that bar was a pain in the ass... After I had to take it off to put the coilovers on and put it back on I pretty much had it dialed in on how to get it on and off with an extra jack. But as far as driving is concerned Strano 32mm FTW!!! I love that bar

Yeah, I don't know why you guys are hating on the StranoBar. That thing kicked ass, even in the snow. I never had a problem with the FSB in the snow, unless I was driving like a drunk monkey and just being plain old ass-hat. Moral of the story, if you drive like a moron in the snow not even an M1 Abrahams Tank is gonna stay on the road.

It was a bitch to get on. I'll give Cory that one.

Just wait till I get the 36mm FSB for the Mustang. :D

My favorite theme song while drinking in G-ville. :D :P

I hope the smiley means you're joking.

Actually, good drivers can run those things off the road. Ask me how I know. :mad:

I ended up going with the 27-29 Whiteline (wanted adjustments for some reason) the install was a PITA, IMO. but eh, after i took off the sub frame thingy it got easier. the end links were a pain too. is there some better trick then vise grips to be able to take the nut off them ? I was able to sorta pinch the bolt in place to keep it from spinning, but only for about 3 turns of the nut, then i had to use vice grips...

mostly it feels the same while driving. bumps that you hit with both fronts at the same time feel the same. Bumps you hit with 1 tire feel a bit worse, which is most of Kahle road. :( (street i live on) After the very initial turn in, less roll in the front and the it turns a bit faster before i find the understeer limit.

doing a weight transfer back to front in corner seems to increase the cars desire to corner a bit more than before, but feels less like it wants to spin out. but i haven't played with it much yet.

I think I'm on the 27 setting (using the holes that are closest to the rear of the car)

I put on the EBC yellows, left their 'break in material' that coats the pads, that says don't remove. and it way sounds like my rotors are getting destroyed. One of the pads is dragging a slight bit while i drive, (though that rotor temp is the same as the drivers side (pyrometer) temps seem normal , braking force seems normal. horrible noise. i only went about 1/2 a mile, turned around, and took the pads out took check them out, there's nothing in there that shouldn't be. shatter/ heat shield thingies are on the correct side.. the pads left some black crap on the rotors that is quickly wearing away. (i think its what the red coating turned into)

Assuming you have the car on the ground or on ramps, you just need the proper size socket or wrench on each side of the bolt.

Nope. The spherical endlinks on the STi don't have a bolt and a nut like the WRX/RS rears links.

What you need is an open-ended wrench to turn the nut, and the correct hex wrench that goes in the hex-socket in the tip of the bolt to keep it from turning.

What the hell does this have to do with front swaybars?

Sorry, don't mean to be an asshole, but it's like you just lost all reckoning and went off on a tangent there... :?:

:lol: I didn't read that far into the post...

Also, unbedded race pads are noisy!?! You don't say?

Whoops, forgot about that.

And it was a bitch to take it off, and put it back on. Trust me I know from experience.

Nothing directly to sways , but this occurred when i was doing my sways. turned out to be a slightly bent rock shield.

Nothing like some good Seccs treatment :)

I wish I would of heard the angry exclamations, but sadly I was asleep.

Common problem, happened to me as well. At least it wasn't a coat hanger. :lol: