Lots of mods/ need help on engine rebuild
 

Hi. I'm new to this forum Let me introduce my self my name is tee jay I live here in Reno nv I'm 23 I install windows for houses all over Reno, cc, and sparks area. My car is black ice had it for three years it's a 2005 sti. now Back to buisness I'm just looking for some advise. Recently my motor just blew up, my shortblock cracked my heads were done for and my turbo seized up on me. So this is resulting in a full overhaul of my car (2005 sti) these are some parts I have in mind, if u have any suggestions or comments let ne know I'm wide open to Them.

As for the short block

Block
100mm pistons
Manley a beam rods turbo tuff
acl rod and main bearings
arp head studs, arp case bolts
cosworth head gasket

as for the heads it's simple I'm just goona get cnc ported heads from cosworth with cams (272/272)

I'm also picking up parts from Gus gus91 (austins) post
this is what I'm getting from chris

Apt 35r Turbo*
Aps fmic
tial 44mm External wastegate
Up pipe
Down pipe
Dump tube
850 cc injectors
255 fuel pump
Defi boost gauge

here are some random parts I'll pick up along the way

Hks ground kit
cosworth timing belt guide
Hks carbon ti
Timing belt
Pulleys (not sure what brand)
red top Battery


Maybe u guys can help me with some brands and other mods or supporting mods I might need. Thanks ahead of time for the info


**

I have never built a motor, just looked and done dream builds lol. So take anything I say with a grain of salt...

Maybe its because I am lazy but I have always thought that if I was going to build a motor I would pick up a built short block from a company, or even a built longblock. Just because they have most likely gone thru the research and development to properly assemble the motor and make sure that components work well together.

If you would like to explore this option

Axis is popular
http://www.raw1performance.com/index_files/Page678.html

GST also has built blocks that they have put together, but also have Cosworth blocks
http://www.gstmotorsports.com/store/...=71_82_159_342

Thats just my $.02. Oh, and if I were you I would get in touch with a tuner and have them guide you thru your build so they are in the know when it comes time to tune your car.

Thanks for ur input. I have looked at this option before and I do agree that it is probably better just to buy a built Long block but it's way to much money. The stage 1 short block is expensive but do able but they do just use a oem crank shaft and rework it and use a oem short block casing. I'm sorry I forgot to mention I already have a stock sb casing and crank my fault. Otherwise I would probably look into this option. So this would be pointless to spend 25 hundred for parts I already have. Although it might put out a bit more power then my set up. I just can't bring myself to re buy the parts I have. Although I am just buying the heads already built by cosworth cause I do not have the oem heads to rebuild they were in to bad of shape. Thank u very much and I do appreciate ur input.

I think the overwhelming response is going to be suspension-related. Good luck on the rebuild!

Thanks Scotty

Yeah no prob. I didn't know you already had a block and crank. I'm out of my league in this thread anyway lol. Best of luck!

Lol. Yea that was my fault I should have put that in the original post. I think I'm out of my league as well this will be my first ever build so any suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks nic

I am in the process of rebuilding 2 STI long blocks and have done a ton of research, so maybe I can help.

Please don't think I am being a jerk, but before I comment on your choices, I'd like to ask some questions to find out a bit more about you and your car.

What are your power and longevity goals, budget and intended uses?

WHP, miles/hours/launches before next rebuild, Daily Driver, street, strip, autocross, road course? $$$s, driving style...

If you can't afford a built long block, then money is an object. How much? Are you doing the assembly and installation, some or all? Do you have the tools/expertise to do it?

Timeline? When do you want it done? And if you are doing the work, how much time do you really have per week? Do you have a place to do it?

Oh, what if any parts do you have from the last motor? And what does the block was "cracked" and heads are "done" mean? Who's words are those? A qualified machinist, a mechanic, or ???

One more... What parts from the list do you already have in your possession/paid for...

sounds good I could really use the help. Good questions, I guess I should have explained my self a bit better. The car is at independent automotive here in Sparks nv. They are the ones that told me that the block is not rebuildable and the heads are not as well. I wanted to do the build my self but I do not have the tools nor the expertese to pull off a job this big. Money is a problem for me but at the same time I do want to do it right the first time. I am looking for it to be a daily driver but at the most ten miles a day so it can still lean More towards a auto cross car. I really want to stay on pump gas but not sure on my hp range. Maybe 450 on pump a bit more on race (No meth or nos)

And I do want it to be reliable but fast.

I have no parts Other than short block and all of it's inside parts. No parts were purchased yet but I was looking to by gusgus91 parts tomorow for 2 thousand. They were-----

Apt 35r Turbo*
Aps fmic
tial 44mm External wastegate
Up pipe
Down pipe
Dump tube
850 cc injectors
255 fuel pump
defi boost gauge


everything is good other than the heads, shortblock (but I have a replacement) And the turbo.
Lol witch is almost all of it

the car was bone stock when it went out.

let me know if I missed anything. I appreciate ur help.
Do u think I should get those parts from chris????

No time frame reall, but I wanted it back before 8 months.

There's not really such a thing as a reliable and cheap 450hp STi. Sure people will tell me I'm crazy, but I challenge anyone to show me a 450whp STi that's got 100,000 miles on the motor at that power level.

Frankly, if you don't literally have $10,000 in your pocket right now that you can just throw away, don't bother trying to build a monster STi. In the long run, you're either going to bankrupt yourself and end up having to sell the car, or you're going to have to cut corners that ends in have another blown motor.

Second, what killed the first motor? If you don't know what did it, what's going to keep it from happening again? The answer to this question can be anything from mechanical/tuning issues, to driver issues. For example, I've gone though several motors myself... and the biggest contributing factor is that I would keep pushing the car for "just one more lap" while the oil temp gauge is screaming at me to back off.

Third, Scotty's right. You'd likely get way more bang for your buck if you spend the money on stage 2 non-built motor, suspension and brakes, and track day entry fees. But of course, that all depends on *why* you're building the car. To me, the most important thing is that the car is fun to drive... and big horsepower is nowhere near as fun as turning and stopping fast. The STi is already a ridiculously powerful car right out of the box. Lots of people will disagree, simply because there are so many big number STis these days, but seriously, the STi doesn't need power nearly as much as it needs suspension.

My suggestion would be getting a new stock long block, or if rebuilding really is cheaper forged pistons at the most, and some stock heads. A TD05-20G is an awesome turbo on that setup... it won't make big numbers, but it's very responsive, has a nice wide powerband, and is definitely faster than a stage 2 STi. Then get some good d/a coilovers and spend money on getting seat time at the race track. You'll have way more fun with that use of your money than you will by having a car with massive dyno numbers that you can't ever safely drive on the street near the limits.

Keep in mind that even with the small build I outlined, you're still going to need injectors, fuel pump, larger intercooler (either TMIC or FMIC), full exhaust, and ENGINE MANAGEMENT (probably the most critical component and I haven't seen anything mentioned). Lots of people feel like they can just slap an open source map on the car and hit the freeway a few times to tune it up, but longevity is critically dependent on getting the car professionally tuned on a dyno. There's a reason why you hear about so many blown motors these days now that every T D and H are "tuners".

As far as those parts you're planning on buying... a 35R is a massive turbo. Unless you've got $10,000+ to spend on getting the motor built right (remember, Cossie heads are $4,000+ without the $1000 cams) you're never going to get anything from that 35R except turbo lag. I'm not saying don't buy it... just know what you're getting yourself in to. I've spent $10,000 on a motor build and that was for a TD05-20G and WRX heads... doing it right and/or big is expensive... and comically so once you realize that big power still isn't all that fun, unless you get tons of enjoyment out of number bragging.

Hmmm very good point On the 450 whp sti being reliable. I would have to agree with u on that. But I'm still goona shoot for that range although I do belive and know that I'm not goona get a hundred thounand miles out of my motor. (but does not mean I want to make one pass just for it to blow up)

the motor went out cause i just pushed it to hard and I know that I have learned my lesson and I'm not going to do that again.

Suspension is a good idea and I will be upgrading to better coilovers soon

money is a issue for me but not when it comes to my car if it takes 10 grand or maybe even more (I have it est it will take 14 grand) ITS ok with me

The 35r is a big turbo I agree and I do appreciate the warning that is why I am on this forum trying to get peoples in put on some of this stuff.

Can I go with a smaller turbo and still hit my hp goals????

I also want to do some drag racing that is the reason for the big hp amount. And thank u very much for all of ur guys inputs.

Scott is on the right track. I forgot to ask what happened to #1 motor assuming it was #1.

I am rebuilding 2 blocks because of 1 under performing injector in theory and maybe an on the edge tune for example.

You really didn't give us a budget. Other than the Fuel pump and maybe FMIC and boost gauge I would skip Chris's parts, no offense Chris. FMIC might be overkill as well.

If you can't afford a built long block and do not have the means to build one yourself, you can't afford to buy the parts and have someone build it for you. It should cost more than the built one that is "assembly lined" at builder Xs shop.

Have you been in a stage 2+ 300WHP 300ft/lb of torque SP/SM STI at an autocross? The low end torque will feel like 450HP. :)

You can have that for the cost of a salvage motor or stock long block. Just add/swap forged pistons for more durability/protection and maybe a 11mm oil pump for $3-4K total or so depending.

Unless you can afford $3-5K+ a year for track days and tires/brakes/etc..., stick to DD and autocross performance levels. And spend the money you save on a seat time at autocross and maybe a track day or two per year. Once you are a better driver, you will know where money needs to be spent next... Tires, wheels, suspension and then maybe engine...

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with your parts list, but it doesn't match what you described as your intended goals except maybe 450HP, but then it is not a good DD or autocross car and not reliable IMHO.

Edit: the problem with typing long posts is people already answered questions you are asking. :(

Smaller turbo = autocross & DD, 35R = track only IMHO.

Ok well thank u for all ur opinons. This has opended my eyes a bit. I will now look into a smaller build and weigh my options. So maybe I won't be heading this route. I'm not sure but I will keep posted thanks again.

Don't forget, if you are going 450HP, you will need to spend another $1000+ on a clutch that can handle it and that clutch will suck balls on the street.

If it is not going to happen soon, go for rides in April and feel what good drivers can do with well prepared cars. Cory's 150HP? RS will feel like 450 in the corners where it matters. And Matt's and hopefully my STIs will give you an idea what a well prepared 300WHP stock turbo will do and there will be others... Drags will be a distant memory once you turn and brake at 1G or so. OK, maybe 0.8G at Stead. :)

+1 what those guys just said

Btw... Have you ever driven a 450hp STi? I haven't but I did ride in Mikes 370 hp STi and it is a whole lot of power...and even being one of the young guys on here I can say it was way too much for a dd street car. Just my opinion.

That's a good point, Nick. "A lot of power" is really subjective, depending on what you've driven. I drive a modded RS daily, and have driven a stage 2 2.5 WRX. That's a lot of power, to me. A stock STi puts out more power than that, iirc. When I was younger, I was thinking I'd want a 400-500 hp STi when I was older, but after realizing the power I'm used to, a stock STi would be close to too much for me right now. Just something to think about.

Yeah, my VF39'ed 06 WRX was pretty quick, aside from the fact that the OTS map sucked horribly it was pretty quick as a dd. The STi at stage 2 annihilates the WRX, and I think after a protune it will be more than enough for the street...for now lol

Speaking of your new car, I still need to see it. I haven't seen it since I used to drive by Pete's parents' house on the way to my parents' house in Carson.

Stage 2ish w/safe protune, Walbro, good oil = solid 300WHP300ft/lb all day long. Add forged pistons, ACL bearings and 11mm oil pump = my new setup.... maybe ;)

That's good to hear Dean because that's my plan. I'm putting a walbro in the sti and going to GST for a conservative protune. Then I plan on learning how to drive lol.

I know you need to see the car Rob, but it still needs some tlc

There is a direct correlation between the size of a turbo and the amount of time it takes to spool. So, for your purposes, more power = more time waiting for boost to kick in. This is why a larger than stock turbo is not usually a benefit for autoX or drivability.

Then you can look at cost of build, dependability after build, noise, etc, etc...just be careful what you wish for. :)

I think I am going to Paul at DB Tuned this time. Closer and I like what I have heard from Aaron and others about him.