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Old 2009-09-22, 02:15 PM   #11
sperry
The Doink
 
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Real Name: Scott
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20,335
 
Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata
Class: PDX/TT-6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IheartSTI View Post
your point was made with taking my post out of context. there was at no point a time i said i was not going to race or test my car. I said i was not going to be doing it all the time. To think this kit wont be tested is a misunderstanding. I want a drysump system that can be used for all applications i might encounter. this could include track day at a road course or going to the drag strip and having some fun.

I have not ruled out going with an accusump or sticking with a 10mm shimmed pump. this thread was to ask if someone had knowledge of doing one of three i titled the thread. I am sure if i do end up doing this with matt and rays help we will go over size of lines and things. that is knit picking and when i get to that point i figure it out.
It still remains that you're creating a solution to no problem. You can't tell me what use case of the car the dry sump is for. Once again, why do you need a dry sump? What problem are you trying to solve?

Like I said in my first post, a proper oil pan and pump is going to be more than enough when your use conditions are "all applications i might encounter", and all you plan to encounter are some aggressive street driving, the occasional PDX, and a night here and there at the drag strip. And I'm not trying to talk you out of a dry sump, I'm just trying to point out that you should be building your car for what you're going to use it for. Building your own dry sump that you don't need is at best just a waste of money, but at worst could result in an oiling problem during your actual use cases like just driving around on the street if you don't have the resources to properly test the configuration and ensure you're getting stock or better oil pressure/flow/filtering. So if you're going to do it, I'd look into a complete, proven, off the shelf kit rather than attempting to engineer something yourself since you don't have any actual problem you're building the system to fix.

I've gone down the road you're going down and I've broken motors due to my inexperience. So I'm not trying to stifle creativity, I'm just trying to use my experiences to help keep others from having to suffer the same failures I've gone through if they don't have to. You're the one that asked for people that have some experience with this stuff. It may not be what you want to hear, but for what you're doing with the car a dry sump is just a bunch of expensive complexity added to the build where the simpler, well tested factory oil setup is plenty adequate.

So in summary, here's what I'd suggest:

1) Stock oil pan and pump, proper oil catch cans, off the shelf oil cooler kit

2) Add oversized JDM or aftermarket oil pump

3) Add larger oil pan and windage tray

4) Add drain back oil breather system <- this is basically where my track car is (though I've also got an oil filter relocation kit), and it seems like it's up to the task of handling the lateral G's the car sees at the track under PDX/Time Trials conditions, but it wasn't built without several iterations and motor failures along the way. I wish I had been able to just buy an off the shelf kit because I didn't have the resources to properly engineer and test my setup... I had to do it by trial and error.

5) Add an accusump

6) Off the shelf dry sump setup

7) Custom designed dry sump setup <- but be prepared to either spend the time/money instrumenting the system to validate it's working, or be prepared to deal with a blown motor if the oiling fails and the accusump can't save the day. Not saying you it's inevitable, just know what you're getting yourself into.

I'm willing to be #1 is more than enough for what your plans are with the car. Going as high as #5 should provide additional capability as long as there are no design issues w/ your setup like I had with mine the first two designs I tried (mostly related to effective length of the oil lines in the system and lack of proper oil pressure monitoring). #6 and #7 are just overkill.
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