Alex, how critical (not being an ass, genuinely curious) is a minor camber change? Seems like you're worrying about the wrong things. 1/4" of ride height is not going to change your balance significantly enough to fundamentally change the car, and being a quarter of a degree off with camber is going to matter even less. Make a marker line, yank them, do what you need to. Toe makes a much bigger difference than a minor camber change front and rear on a dirt car, and that isn't going to change with a strut pull/reinstall.
I've done many, many coilover installs and never had an issue dialing camber back in about where I need it. Hell, buy a level and use that in a pinch - that's all most camber gauges are anyways, just with more specific attachment points. If you don't want to buy a cheapie set of Summit camber tools, then make something else work - DIY is ok as long as it's repeatable.
Also, I think it was already said, but tenders always go on the bottom, because you don't want an unsupported joint (the spring coupler) in the middle of your strut shaft, ESPECIALLY in something like dirt work where you are going to go to max droop where the spring can wobble around a bit. That coupler should be around the widest non-moving part of the strut body so that it's only going up and down, not in and out. Less important with a helper than a tender, since you normally have no free space with a helper under droop, but I'd still put it on the bottom; technically it's all unsprung weight so it shouldn't matter from any other perspective and you're just worried about spring control.
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Last edited by sybir; 2011-05-23 at 03:36 PM.
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