[sperry]

I'm confused about what you're asking... if you want to know what's cheaper, then add up the cost of the two options and see which one is cheaper (duh). If you're asking what's more valuable, well that's difficult question for anyone but you to answer because none of us have driven the car on stage to know how bad (or good) the current gearing really is compared to the power bump from the ECU/cams.

What's the current final ratio of the car? On my SVX I went from the stock 3.545 to 4.44. It made a big difference in the peppyness of the car... but 3.545 to 4.444 is pretty drastic. If you're currently at 4.11 or 3.90, it may not be as noticeable. Remember, converting your final drive isn't just swapping the rear-end. You'll need to replace the front diff and possibly the center diff as well (there are 1:1 and 1:1.1 center diffs out there). Aren't you running a $1000 quaife in the front? Does that have a cheap way to change the ratio? I can't imagine swapping 2 diffs for under $600... certainly not if you're swapping the entire gearbox as well. I know I spent like $600 at D&D for the 4.444 Outback 4EAT that went into the SVX, and another $200 give or take for the matching 4.444 rear-end. Then I had to pay Cory to install it all.

Also, keep in mind that if you're not getting into 5th gear now, with a higher final drive, you may be. In fact, I would say you should make *sure* to pick a final drive that makes you use 5th. Hell, if the fastest you ever go on stage is 110, then ideally that should also be right around where 5th gear tops out (though realistically you'll want some cushion in case you eventually make more power, not to mention the terrible gas mileage between stages without a long gear for cruising). After all, the whole point of the higher final drive is to make better use out of the ratios in the gearbox, right? Granted, it may be too expensive to have custom ratio front and rear diffs, but if you're really trying to maximize your power usage, that's the way to go.

But really, the bottom line is: if your current ECU is broken, then obviously that needs to be addressed before your final drive ratio. If that means a reflash, you might as well get the cams for the extra power. And if you're planning on that anyway, I'd get the power adders done first, then pick a final drive to match since the ideal gearing for the car now will be different than the ideal gearing if you're making 20% more power or whatever.