Quote:
Originally Posted by A1337STI
ya i should be asking which one has more Value. which route would make my car faster from a rolling start. which will improve my 40-80 mph times more?
Currently I'm a 4.11 and i have gotten Deep into 4th at Idaho, NNR, and Prescott (about half the rallies i do) the Stages (through out the year) vary a lot. Mendocino was so tight i never hit 4th gear
I'm using the same Diff ($370 OBX) as when i was 3.90 the ring bolts on/off I am (incorrectly?) assuming a 4.44 ring would bolt right up ...
With what you are saying about the ECU ... I hadn't thought of it as broken. but , i think you are right to think effectively it is. a constant on Check Engine is worthless. when we reset the knock code the car seems to have more power .
Sounds like i should really just do the ECU (with more aggressive cams) and see where I end up gearing wise..
are 01's known to have a knock code issue? I guess my first step is to take off my skid plate clear the code and see if it returns. step2 would be a new knock sensor ...
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First, yes you can swap ring/pinions. The ring is easy, the pinion is a PITA apparently. When I did the SVX, we actually just swapped the LSD carrier from the 3.545 into the 4.444 open diff while changing out the ring gear. That way I didn't have to shim anything or deal with pulling the pinion, and I got to keep my LSD rear-end. If the OBX is just a carrier for the R160 (or is the OBX in the front?) then it should work with other ring/pinion ratios. If you're talking about the front diff, I would expect the pinion to be even more of a PITA than the rear was.
But really, if you're already running a 4.11 final drive, I wouldn't bother with a 4.44. There's hardly a difference. Now if you were talking about going to a high 5.xx ratio, then it might be worth it, but you're not going to find an R160 ring/pinion out of any Subaru diffs. IIRC, the 4.444 is the highest ratio Subaru ever used.
Fix your ECU issues. Probably should fix 'em even before farting around with new cams. Get what you've got running well so when you install new stuff you're not trying to figure out if you have problems if the problem was an existing issue or related to the new bits.
Oh, and if your knock sensor is suspect, just replace it. If the problem doesn't go away, then you've got a spare knock sensor in your toolbox. They're like what, $30? In the long run that's not at all expensive.