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Originally Posted by sperry
Anywho... I think I'm looking at about 3300 lbs at race-weight (1/4 tank of gas + driver). Not bad for what's supposedly a much heavier transmission. I'm shooting for 1000 lbs per tire in the front and 650 per tire in the rear, which is right around 60/40. Of course the more weight I can get in the back to balance things out, the better, but I'm not so sure there's much I can do w/o getting way too jiggy w/ the ride heights.
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Ack, standard misconception above.... Cornerweighting is not about front-rear or left-right, the primary purpose is about cross corners....
Your objective is to have LF + RR = RF + LR with driver in the seat and approriate fuel load. This will make the car handle mostly evenly in left and right corners. Think of it as leveling a 4 legged table or stool. If one leg is short, it will pivot/rock on the two diagonal corners next to that corner.
Get within 40lb, and you are golden.
To adjust left-right, or front/rear, you have to actually move weight. Cross corners can be done with strut length.
The key is that you must do all the prep to be accurate.
SCALES MUST BE PERFECTLY LEVEL Think within 1/32nd of an inch or less.
Driver or equivelent weight in the driver's seat.
Disconnect sway bars.
If you can, disconnect the shock tops
Tire pressures to EXACTLY what you expect your hot pressures to be...
If you are working in the sun, or the temperature is changing, check pressures often.
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Here is an OK resource for Cornerweighting process.
http://www.racepal.com/web-content/G...nerweight.html