I would highly suggest going back and fully bleeding your clutch system. Having air in the system may be causing a situation where the clutch actuator is not able to extend out fully and disengage the clutch.
To perform the clutch bleed correctly you will need to remove the clutch actuator from the transmission in the engine bay since the bleed nipple sits lower than the highest point. In my car this meant having to remove the starter so I could get access to the clutch actuator. Remove the actuator, hold it in your hand with the bleed nipple at the highest point. Be sure to hold your hand over the end of the actuator that pushes on the clutch fork otherwise it may pop out. When I last did my clutch a few weeks ago you can open the bleed valve and have a friend just pump the clutch pedal up and down with his/her hand to get the fluid moving out. Once a decent amount of fluid has moved though you can follow the typical brake bleeding procedure. close bleeder, tell friend to pump clutch, feel clutch actuator arm press against your hand, once it extends out a little ways, tell friend to hold, open bleeder. Do this once or twice then install actuator back onto the transmission. You can go though one or two more bleed cycles at this point if you want, but I'm not sure if it's necessary. Top off the clutch fluid reservoir and you're done. Be sure to re-install the starter and don't forget the engine ground wire that you removed.
This made quite a difference on my car and moved the clutch engagement point up a bit. I also did the clutch delay valve removal mod at the same time, I would recommend that also if you have the time. Hopefully this helps and it's something simple to try and fix the problem without removing everything again.
Ryan
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