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Originally Posted by AtomicLabMonkey
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Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
Coning comes from the contact surface of the rotor getting hotter much faster than the hat portion. Because the outside edge of the rotor is expanding more than the inside part, it tries to move outward, making the rotor have a larger radius. But since it can't, it tips to the side instead to allow the expansion. 2 piece rotors prevent this by allowing the inner portion of the rotor to change shape without binding against itself. 2 piece rotors have some play in the fasteners for that reason.
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Interesting. Make sure you've got those things safety-wired... 
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Originally Posted by sperry
STi 4-pots - Affordable. Uses stock WRX rotors, so doesn't really increase heat resistance. Doesn't actually make the car stop better either, but adds much needed "feel" to the brakes.
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Going with the STi stuff might be all you need; the beefier calipers will actually increase the heat storage capacity of the brakes.. not as much as larger iron rotors do, but a little. The extra pistons (as long as they're sized correctly for the rest of the system) & change in the way the rotor is being clamped will probably give a better feel like you said and let you modulate pressure better at the threshold. The biggest difference for track use though will probably come from running the correct heat range pads, and getting some cooling air on those front brakes. I'm not talking about the WRX's dookie stock "cooling ducts" either , I'm talking about the real thing. Even World Challenge cars don't do very well without any air ducting to the brakes. |
I'm starting to think that's the way to go as well. Since I'm not planning on doing lots of track time, I probably can't justify the $1000 *more* the StopTechs will cost. Plus, the smaller 4-pots will be cheaper since I only need some RS rims instead of 17" rims and snow tires. Plus pads and rotors will be cheaper and as far as AutoX, these should give me all the benefit of a BBK (better feel and modulation) w/ the weight of bigger rotors, and no real heat drawbacks since I'm not fading my brakes in AutoX yet.
On a side note, does anyone know how to bleed the ABS portion of the brakes? I need to get that thing to cycle... my brakes are really spongy even after bleeding 'em... I think there's water in the fluid in the ABS system, and even after bleeding the main lines, they get polluted quickly.
