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Old 2011-05-30, 10:55 AM   #1
rory_a
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Default 3-Piece Wheel Restore/Separate Shops/DIY

Anyone have any info on restoring/ separating 3-piece wheels? The bolts have a multi-point star head that's not hex, nor tork. Need the tool for these, and any insight in what to look for when I separate them.

I picked up a set of 18x8.5 SSR SP1 Professors and looking to split them apart so I can get the centers powder coated. Wheels are in perfect condition, just going for a color change - I already have a set of black wheels (the RPFs) and the black with polished lip look is not for me.

If I can get a shop to split them apart, powder coat/paint the centers, re-polish the lips, and reassemble, I'd be pretty happy to pay a few bucks more than the cost of the powder coat alone. So anyone know of decent local wheel restorers/refurbishers?

If I do this myself, who's got the best pricing/work on powder? Thinking I'm going to need either a candy or a pearl



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Old 2011-05-31, 01:46 PM   #2
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Hah, get them from the guy in Chico?
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Old 2011-05-31, 06:16 PM   #3
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Hah, get them from the guy in Chico?
Yep.... mint set of SSR SP1s - they looked like crap in his pics, but they look nearly new. But, we're gonna keep the RPFs for auto-x/track cause the 18s are pretty hefty, but not wanting to rock another set of black wheels.
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Old 2011-05-31, 08:37 PM   #4
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You shouldn't need to disassemble them to PC or to repair them actually.

<insert don't PC forged wheels disclaimer here>
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Old 2011-05-31, 09:01 PM   #5
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You shouldn't need to disassemble them to PC or to repair them actually.

<insert don't PC forged wheels disclaimer here>
I believe the centers are cast, with forged barrels and lips. But, why no pc forged wheels? I'm guessing something to do with heat cycling, but I wouldn't think the heat from baking the powder would be worse on forged than cast.

Not opposed to paint though, as I think what I'm looking to do would be more suited to paint.

Main reason for spitting them is to make it easier to strip, clean, refinish the centers. At the same time, clean and possibly strip and polish the lips and barrels, then clear them.
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Old 2011-05-31, 09:06 PM   #6
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If painting/PCing is only on individual pieces, probably don't need to disassemble, but would say you do if crossing seams.

Far from an expert, but I think unless you have the right tools and experience or help from someone whoo is, would not disassemble/assemble them yourself. Let someone who does do it. Wheels are too damn important to risk doing it wrong.
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Old 2011-05-31, 10:28 PM   #7
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Check out Sierra Wheel Repair. They might be able to help. I forgot the guy lives near me, until I saw his trailer in his drive way. haha.


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Old 2011-06-01, 04:10 AM   #8
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I used to order a set of 3 pieces wheel and one of them is out of round from the factory. They have to send me another one. So I would not disassemble them if you not sure how to make it center when put back together.
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Old 2011-06-01, 06:25 PM   #9
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I had mine done at Metal Masters or whatever their alias is. They do wheels all day long so they're really good at it. Just make sure you make it clear what parts you don't want the PC on and they'll mask it off.


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I just spoke to Guy at Metal Master and their current rate for each 16X6.5 alloy wheel is $65+powder (nominal and varies depending on color)+tax. Any other places I can try? I really wanted to go to them since I was expecting them to have the exact color/gloss I chose on file, but they don't.

They did do a great job the first time though. I just wish it was still $35/wheel + tax.
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Old 2011-06-02, 01:09 PM   #10
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I spoke with SSR today to get some details. Since my wheels are welded I won't be messing with he rite sealing surface. The barrels and lips are spun forged but the centers have always been cast, so pc is ok, no worries on pc'ing forged wheels if I split them.

My intention was to score each wheel with position and paining marks to get the correct center back to the correct barrel at the correct position. Should just be a matter of separating the eight pieces, refinishing the centers and cleaning the barrels and putting them back together.

Gonna call both shops today though, see where I'd be getting it done. But, since the color would need to sneak into some tight spots between the two pieces, and since they'd be taping off 20 bolts per wheel, I think it'd be worth it to split them up.
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Old 2011-06-02, 01:52 PM   #11
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Metal masters said $120-150 each if I separate and drop offend centers :0

Sierra wheel repair, $85-125 to separate, paint, clear, etc.


Might end up going that route, maybe check on getting them uber polished in n out whilete centers are being painted.
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Old 2011-06-02, 01:56 PM   #12
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So, thoughts on color?

I'm thinking a matte/textured cast iron/charcoal, pearl super bright silver with some blue n purple in it, candy teal, a slightly brighter version of Work's Mag Blue (basically WRB) or ???
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Old 2011-06-02, 02:13 PM   #13
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So, thoughts on color?

I'm thinking a matte/textured cast iron/charcoal, pearl super bright silver with some blue n purple in it, candy teal, a slightly brighter version of Work's Mag Blue (basically WRB) or ???
Gold.
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Old 2011-06-02, 03:43 PM   #14
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Gold.
Hell no. Honestly though, no interest in running gold. Thought about bronze, but going for either subtle or in your face. Thinking any of my options would look good with the polished lips and hardware.

Since it'll be wingless as well I'm trying to stray from normal/common Subaru coloring.
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Old 2011-06-02, 04:19 PM   #15
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Hell no. Honestly though, no interest in running gold. Thought about bronze, but going for either subtle or in your face. Thinking any of my options would look good with the polished lips and hardware.

Since it'll be wingless as well I'm trying to stray from normal/common Subaru coloring.
Um, gold centered 3-piece wheels are not a Subaru "thing", IMO.

It's more of a BMW or VW thing.



Or a Ferrari thing if you pick the right era.

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Old 2011-06-02, 05:28 PM   #16
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Go check out garage works powdercoating and talk to them. They have some insane bright colors and a big selection as well.. I say go with bright and in your face. I like the idea of the candy or pearl color. Everybody has flat/matte.. Go with something crazy. Make your car stand out from the others.
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Old 2011-06-02, 07:57 PM   #17
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Scott, I was referring to gold wheels in general. I've seen the SP1s in gold and not really impressed. On that note though, my parents had a set of gold 16x7 and 16x8 BBS RS on our BMW 533i with M motor and other goodies. Just the way they bought he car from someone who was over his head.

Austin, I'll try Garage Works as well. I'm thinking any powder coat shop will not want to split up the wheels, and any wheel refinisher will want to make a few extra bucks polishing stuff that doesn't need it, my reasoning behind splitting them up myself. The bright colors would be sweet, but for how long? Thinin I'd get bored of something bright quicker than something mellow. That was my theory behind the pearled silver. Something in between.
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Old 2011-06-03, 11:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rory_a View Post
Metal masters said $120-150 each if I separate and drop offend centers :0

Sierra wheel repair, $85-125 to separate, paint, clear, etc.


Might end up going that route, maybe check on getting them uber polished in n out whilete centers are being painted.
That Metal Masters quote is double what I paid for two stock rims flat black. Did you talk to Guy? Shmooze him a bit? They don't seem to love doing wheels. They say it's hard because gasses come out of the aluminum and make the finish hard to get right or something.
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Old 2011-06-08, 09:07 AM   #19
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I started to separate one of my wheels last night to get them ready to take to Garage Works for Flat Candy Teal powder coat. Ended up feeling like I should let a pro do it. Gonna drop the set off to Sierra today.

Also changed color, going slightly more subtle, pewter-ish silver with blue/purple pearl. Wanting to replicate he Lexus pearl white, but with a dark silver base.
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Old 2011-06-08, 02:15 PM   #20
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Talked to Sierra. He recommended I split them myself and take them to a powder coated to save $. So, back to the drawing board. Need a couple 12pt metric tools - one male, one female. other than that, game on.
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