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		#26 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
				Location: Reno 
				
				
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				 Car: '93/'01 GF6, mostly red 
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			Thanks dude.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	FWD is the new AWD  | 
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		#27 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
				Location: Reno 
				
				
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			Alrighty, so the harness are all fabbed, plugged in, and everything works super. Pleasantly surprised to see that either there's no momentary loss of ground when switching between beams, or the ballasts hold a charge longer than that interval. No dipping between highs and lows. 
		
		
		
			Almost. There's a minor issue with the current harness that causes a pretty undesirable side effect... 
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			FWD is the new AWD Last edited by Kevin M; 2007-02-24 at 12:04 AM.  | 
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		#28 | |
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			 The Doink 
			
			
			
				
			
			Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 
				Location: Portland, OR 
				
				
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				 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata 
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			 Quote: 
	
 And it doesn't look like you'd need a resistor in there anywhere... it looks right as-is. What's the side-effect you're having with the current harness? I had some weird ass issues with my fog lights causing my hi-beams to latch on due to the way the fog light switches indicator lamp interacting with a line I had tapped to use as an input for the DRL switch I made. 
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		#29 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
				Location: Reno 
				
				
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			I think the first drawing  did would work fine, but it doesn't isolate teh left and rights sides. Any single component failure could disable my lights entirely, so wehn you posted yours I tossed that one and built the one you drew. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Unfortunately, you guessed it... the high beams lock themselves on. I have to kill the lights to get them back to lowbeam only. The new schematic should work fine, but I was thinking that if resistance of the high beam shield solenoid is high enough, they may not ground out when I hit flash-to-pass. Other than that they should be perfect. Thanks for your help dude. I probably would have eventually figured this out (hopefully without killing a ballast) but you definitely sped up the process for me. 
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		#30 | 
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			 The Doink 
			
			
			
				
			
			Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 
				Location: Portland, OR 
				
				
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				 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata 
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			There must be a ground path through the dash lights or something that locks that solenoid on.  You'll probably have the same problem with your drawing as well... as they look functionally the same.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#31 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
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			You migth still be right, but I think your harness has a ground loop, as shown in attachment. Once you power the high beam relay, it grounds itself through the power side back to the low beam.
		 
		
		
		
			
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		#32 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
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			This would fix it too, but if I can eliminate a relay on each side, I might as well. 
		
		
		
			Edit: Maybe not. This one has an issue of two hots going to a single ground in FTP, so there are probably gremlins lurking in it as well. 
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		#33 | 
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			 The Doink 
			
			
			
				
			
			Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 
				Location: Portland, OR 
				
				
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				 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata 
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			I see what you're saying.... because the low and hi are both pulled to ground as the hi's are turned off, the hi solenoid latches on through the low solenoid... what's confusing me is how that can happen with the +V on the wires between the two solenoids. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I guess that's why I'm a software engineer, and not an electrical engineer. 
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		#34 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
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			From what I understand, you can split apart a hot lead as much as you want, it's when you try to run multiple hots to a single ground you can have issues. If you look at your original schematic, you can see how it has 4 hot leads from a single source, but they all go to various grounds without teeing. It operates fine as a circuit, it just has an unintended effect when the high beam is grounded.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#35 | |
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			 The Doink 
			
			
			
				
			
			Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 
				Location: Portland, OR 
				
				
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				 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata 
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			 Quote: 
	
 I think you're thinking of signals... like trying to splice speaker wires... you can splice the signal into multiple signals just fine, but if you try to join two different signals, you can get a mess. 
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		#36 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
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			I see.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#37 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
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			So it's finally, really, totally finished. I have constant low beams and high beams when I activate them. 
		
		
		
			But, the simplified harness I drew today didn't work. The high beam circuit didn't have enough power to activate the solenoids. constant low beams, but no high beam activation. I guess that the ground signal just wouldn't overcome the resistance of the solenoids when the low beam ground was handy with basically no resistance. So I started investigating. High and low filaments of H4 bulbs have about 3-4 Ohms resistance. the relays I am using have about 65 Ohms. So, I decided I would just go back to using a second pair of relays to isolate the solenoid circuit with another lead off of the battery. I am using single fused leads for the ballasts, but I figured on shared fuse for the solenoids is fine, since I don't need one if I lose the other anyway. My first attempt was pretty awesome. It didn't have any captured grounds... it just worked backwards. I don't need to use the low beam ground at all. The whole point of the low ground is so you can have it switched off when you use high beams... which I don't want. So I moved the ballast circuit ground from the switched low beam ground to a constant ground. Since the hot feed only works when you move the rotary switch on, the extra ground is redundant. That greatly simplified everything, because now I just had to make the other circuit close the solenoids when the high beam ground was switched on. Man this was a pain in the ass, but in the end it's worth it I guess. 
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			FWD is the new AWD Last edited by Kevin M; 2007-02-24 at 10:23 PM.  | 
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		#38 | 
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			 The Doink 
			
			
			
				
			
			Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 
				Location: Portland, OR 
				
				
					Posts: 20,335
				 
				
				 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata 
				Class: PDX/TT-6 
				 The way out is through 
				
				
				
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			Can't you can take that hi-beam relay out?  Split the hot, run one to power the ballast via a relay as you have already, then let the hi-ground pull the shield solenoid to ground by itself?  No need to run BATT to the shield solenoid, since it's just a solenoid w/ low current, right?  An no latching issues because there's no ground loop?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#39 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
				Location: Reno 
				
				
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			That's what I initially tried to do, but the current from the Common hot on the H4 plug isn't enough to close the solenoids. If I ran battery power directly to the solenoid and then in to the high ground, it might work... but it works now and I don't have an immediate need for those relays, so I'm not going to bother messing with it.  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#40 | 
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			 EJ22 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Feb 2004 
				
				
				
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				 lol internet. 
				
				
				
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		#41 | 
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			 The Doink 
			
			
			
				
			
			Real Name: Scott Join Date: Nov 2002 
				Location: Portland, OR 
				
				
					Posts: 20,335
				 
				
				 Car: '09 OBXT, '02 WRX, '96 Miata 
				Class: PDX/TT-6 
				 The way out is through 
				
				
				
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			Josh, how long were you trolling the internet looking for a place to post that picture?  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#42 | 
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			 EJ22 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Feb 2004 
				
				
				
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				 lol internet. 
				
				
				
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		#43 | 
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			 EJ22T 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
				Location: Reno 
				
				
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			Did you see that? I was drawing it as hard as I could.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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