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Old 2007-12-26, 04:59 PM   #126
GST Mike
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Hopefully he's not the one working on the motor for you, you might have some serious piston bobble if he goes 100mm over

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Old 2007-12-26, 05:09 PM   #127
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Hopefully he's not the one working on the motor for you, you might have some serious piston bobble if he goes 100mm over

Mike


No, he's just the guy answering the phone, scheduling the jobs, and shoving my box of engine bits on the correct shelf. (I hope!)

But a 100mm over would be a 22.3L block!
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Old 2007-12-26, 05:16 PM   #128
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Your pistons would dance like Hula-dolls...nice.
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Old 2007-12-26, 05:28 PM   #129
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Imagine the turbo response and spool up on that motor!
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Old 2007-12-26, 06:08 PM   #130
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No, he's just the guy answering the phone, scheduling the jobs, and shoving my box of engine bits on the correct shelf. (I hope!)

But a 100mm over would be a 22.3L block!
I just got done with a meeting with the new Nor Cal Precision Turbo rep, I think they have a turbo for that motor mate. Should be wicked, think 3000whp on your little tires
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Old 2007-12-26, 10:46 PM   #131
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I just got done with a meeting with the new Nor Cal Precision Turbo rep, I think they have a turbo for that motor mate. Should be wicked, think 3000whp on your little tires
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Old 2007-12-28, 09:46 AM   #132
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Hey Scott, still waiting on that list from you to my work email.

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Old 2007-12-28, 12:31 PM   #133
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Hey Scott, still waiting on that list from you to my work email.

Mike
I haven't sent you anything quite yet. I'm waiting on the machine shop to tell me what I need... 'cause if the cylinders can't be saved, I'll likely be asking you about a built short-block instead of just parts.
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Old 2007-12-28, 01:23 PM   #134
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I haven't sent you anything quite yet. I'm waiting on the machine shop to tell me what I need... 'cause if the cylinders can't be saved, I'll likely be asking you about a built short-block instead of just parts.
Oh ok, well we have those good and instock right now

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Old 2008-01-03, 10:59 AM   #135
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Welp, my 12mm JDP oil pump showed up.

Now, if only AIMS would get back to me about the feasibility of my motor, I could get on with rebuilding or buying a new short block.
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Old 2008-01-03, 11:24 AM   #136
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=20496591
My back up plan was just to get a Cobb tuner block w/ forged pistons, but they went and stopped selling them.
OSNAP! that sucks. Hope it was just not a money maker for them and not some other issue. Mine still works though.
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Old 2008-01-07, 02:45 PM   #137
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Awe yeah...

Just heard from AIMS. Cylinders were honed and came out fine, pistons look great, the guy even said the rings are probably fine, but I'm replacing them just in case. They're not 100% sure they can save the crank, just 'cause they're a hard to work on, but the guy said they'd try it for free... if they can't save it, it's no charge.

They're going to source me some rings and new bearings, and I've got to get a replacement rod. Then they're going to take care of the short-block assembly for me.

Once the short-block is done, I'll probably just haul the heads down there to get 'em hot-tanked, have the lash checked, and get the long-block assembled so I don't have to deal with that sort of work in my dirty-ass garage. I can deal w/ all the manifolds, plumbing, accessories, timing gear, etc myself and get that thing back in the car for break-in.
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Old 2008-01-07, 04:00 PM   #138
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Nice....That's great news.
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Old 2008-01-07, 05:56 PM   #139
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I'm glad most of the parts are going to be reusable and their position on the crank makes me like them as a company.

If they are going to do the heads and put the long block together, I would think they should do the timing gears as well.

I was going to suggest some Total Seal Gapless rings, but apparently they don't make any for late model Subarus. We used those on the Renault R8 engine we rebuilt and they were amazing. Oh well.
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Old 2008-01-07, 06:47 PM   #140
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No rings for "late model Subarus?" Shouldn't it just be 100mm piston rings with a specified width/material?
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Old 2008-01-07, 07:15 PM   #141
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No rings for "late model Subarus?" Shouldn't it just be 100mm piston rings with a specified width/material?
They don't have anything listed in their "application" tool, though it is entirely possible they have a "standard" fitment that would work, and they will probably custom make anything you want for $$$s....

http://www.totalseal.com/TechPage.as...plessPistRings

They would help Scott's Blow By issue as well even with his new catch can system.

They seal so well that the R8 engine we did would occasionally refire without the starter after 5-10 minutes of sitting if a piston was in the right place the when you turned on the ignition.

Probably wouldn't happen on a FI engine, but pretty amazing.
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Old 2008-01-07, 08:26 PM   #142
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They make them for 3.940 and 3.935" bores.
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Old 2008-01-08, 11:14 AM   #143
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They make them for 3.940 and 3.935" bores.
That might work for me (3.940" = 100mm), but it doesn't matter anyway, since I'm letting the guys at AIMS source the rings. I figure they're going to know more about this than us. They've actually been building a bunch of STi motors as of late, so they seem to know what works.

Also... anyone else notice they just joined the board? Hi Robert!
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Old 2008-01-10, 06:54 PM   #144
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Cory, just put a 4g63 in it.
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*cough*suckup*cough*
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Old 2008-01-31, 02:31 PM   #145
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I've done a couple of dyno break ins on fresh motors.
So far, none use oil.
Although one did develope DSM itis....but I did not build the motor.

BTW...I got a few STi cranks laying around.
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Old 2008-01-31, 02:41 PM   #146
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I guess I should have posted an update!

AIMS was able to save my crank, plus the cylinders were fine after honing. I picked up the assembled shortblock earlier this week, and dropped off my heads for cleaning and inspection. So, I should have them back early next week. Also my Cosworth oil pan and baffle showed up today from GST (thanks Mike!)... that pan is the pimp shit! And last week I picked up MikeK's FP Green, so I've got the turbo damage covered.

So, next week I should have just about everything I need, save a new timing belt and probably some misc. gaskets, to put this motor back together.
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Old 2008-01-31, 02:54 PM   #147
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I've done a couple of dyno break ins on fresh motors.
So far, none use oil.
Although one did develope DSM itis....but I did not build the motor.

BTW...I got a few STi cranks laying around.
Interesting read... I've heard that "break it in the way you'll run it" theory for a while now, mostly from the sportbike crowd. The thing I like about it is that it's a much quicker process than trying to put 1000-2000 miles on the car... but Mike at GST has recommended that I stick to the factory method in the past, so I'm torn regarding how to break in my new motor.

To be honest, I may not have the opportunity to do a real gentle, long break in simply because of time constraints and that whole "it's not street legal" issue meaning I need to find track time to break it in. Paul, I may be contacting you for some dyno time and some help cranking the motor over for the first time, since I've never done that sort of thing myself before.
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Old 2008-02-02, 07:48 PM   #148
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So, I'm finally making progress in the right direction. Put all the plugs into the shortblock, installed the oil pump, water pump (12mm JDP pump that I added a shim to for a bump in oil pressure), cosworth oil baffle and oil pan, oil/water heat exchanger, and did some basic cleanup.
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Old 2008-02-02, 10:47 PM   #149
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ummm.... I would ditch the cork oil pan gasket.... Tha thing will leak like mad!!! I have a tube of fujibond if ya want it. everything elso looks good though.. Good luck, and take your time dude, you don't want to do that job twice!
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Old 2008-02-02, 10:55 PM   #150
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ummm.... I would ditch the cork oil pan gasket.... Tha thing will leak like mad!!! I have a tube of fujibond if ya want it. everything elso looks good though.. Good luck, and take your time dude, you don't want to do that job twice!
Hrm... it was in my gasket kit for the EJ257, so I assumed it'd work. I used some Permatex "right stuff" (which the engine builder over at AIMS recommended as an alternative to the Fuji Bond 1215) with the cork gasket. Pulling the pan and ditching the cork would be all of a 20 minute job... so, just use the straight gasket maker stuff and nothing else on the oil pan?
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