Eneos Oil

[michio10]

Hi everyone, as the title suggest the topic I'd like to discuss is Eneos Oil in general.
I was wondering if anyone has had an experience running these oil up here as well as know where to get these locally around the Reno-Tahoe area.

In my previous experience with my 300zx back in hawaii, I found it to be good over all and it has been my family's preferred oil of choice (mostly because I am from Japan) and I've never gone out my comfort zone.

however as of right now, I am using the left over lubricants that the previous owner handed to me; they are redline motor oil and redline shockproof gear oil and it seems to run the car pretty good aside from diff fluid tends to come out of the vents. (I've seen some threads on NASIOC mentioning that the shock proof oil tends to do this.)

anyways, I was wondering if anyone has experience with Eneos Oil with their Subaru and know where to get them locally. as so far, I've only been able to find it through NAPA but they carry very few and I'd like to explore my options

sorry the thread got a bit long and thanks for reading this.

-Michio

[Dean]

Search. We have discussed oil and shockproof repeatedly.

Quick response:

Red-Line is good stuff. Shockproof should only be in the trans/center and will last for a long, long time.

Royal Purple is probably as good if not better.

Neither is really necessary unless you are tracking your car or like to spend too much on oil. Mobile 1 or any other good synthetic is probably fine for the street. Spend money on good filters.

Purolator Pure Ones are some of the best.

No reason to go looking for something more obscure IMHO. And if you mention Amsoil we will kill you.

[sperry]

Don't bother putting Mobile 1 in a turbo Subaru unless you like adding oil every 1000 miles and/or spun bearings. Yes, I'm exaggerating... but not that much.

[michio10]

Originally Posted by Dean

Search. We have discussed oil and shockproof repeatedly.

Quick response:

Red-Line is good stuff. Shockproof should only be in the trans/center and will last for a long, long time.

Royal Purple is probably as good if not better.

Neither is really necessary unless you are tracking your car or like to spend too much on oil. Mobile 1 or any other good synthetic is probably fine for the street. Spend money on good filters.

Purolator Pure Ones are some of the best.

No reason to go looking for something more obscure IMHO. And if you mention Amsoil we will kill you.

Dean, thanks for the quick response.
as of right now I am using the K&N oil filter mostly due to the wrench off feature. So do you think Purator pure ones would compare better than the K&N because im willing to take your suggestion and try it in the next round

No worries I won't turn this into another common NASIOC thread.
tbh, many will agree that it will be based on personal preference, and my oil of choice is Eneos although I have not run this stuff in my WRX. With that being said I'd just like to know if anyone know where I could get some ENEOS oil locally.

I got this WRX in July and Im still trying to get to know her so im trying to experiment and try different stuff and as I am kind of a paranoid person, I have some concern. my set up is below:

Hydra EMS (custom map tuned by Mike Warfield at GST)
Perrin rotated turbo kit GT3076.63A/R turbo charger
Perrin FMIC
Perrin Twin catch can
custom PCV catch can
TEAL external waste gate and BOV
1000cc injectors

with my set up mentioned, here's my concern; in the last oil change I've lost about a 1qt(based on the dip stick) using redline 5w30 in a 3500 mile interval combined on eaten up oil as well as blow by caught by the three catch cans; though the the first Perrin tank does not get completely filled, I see some residual oil under the hood near the BoV. as mentioned previously mentioned above, Im a bit of a paranoid individual out of my comfort zone so Im curious to experiment my oil options locally and as well as experiment with viscosity.


thanks,

- Michio

[michio10]

Originally Posted by sperry

Don't bother putting Mobile 1 in a turbo Subaru unless you like adding oil every 1000 miles and/or spun bearings. Yes, I'm exaggerating... but not that much.

lol, I would say the same thing

I heard their EURO ones are pretty good but I've never tried and I dont think I'd ever bother with it.

[michio10]

I forgot to mention that Im wanting to experiment with 0w-50 oil from Eneos if i could get one around here locally...
I know a shop that sells these in vegas but I live in reno now so im SOL about that till I go there some time.
Also I'm looking at this viscosity range because aside from freakishly unpredictable weather in Reno Tahoe are around September- December, I will be snowboarding a lot in the winter and I unfortunately have to park my car out side where I live so i figure with my current set up and what not, this wide viscosity range can accommodate my needs.

below is the link to the eneos site providing the information on their 0w-50 oil
http://www.eneos.us/product/2#overview

[sperry]

Originally Posted by michio10

Dean, thanks for the quick response.
as of right now I am using the K&N oil filter mostly due to the wrench off feature. So do you think Purator pure ones would compare better than the K&N because im willing to take your suggestion and try it in the next round

I run the K&N filters on all my cars (3 Subarus and 1 Miata). I think they seem pretty decent. The Pure One's might be better, especially on a daily driven car that has to put up with tons of cold starts and long intervals between oil changes. I just have a much easier time finding the K&N filters locally at O'Reilly's and Summit. The wrench off nut is a nice feature too.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by michio10

I forgot to mention that Im wanting to experiment with 0w-50 oil from Eneos if i could get one around here locally...
I know a shop that sells these in vegas but I live in reno now so im SOL about that till I go there some time.
Also I'm looking at this viscosity range because aside from freakishly unpredictable weather in Reno Tahoe are around September- December, I will be snowboarding a lot in the winter and I unfortunately have to park my car out side where I live so i figure with my current set up and what not, this wide viscosity range can accommodate my needs.

below is the link to the eneos site providing the information on their 0w-50 oil
http://www.eneos.us/product/2#overview

0w50 isn't going to be any different than 0w30 in the winter. The 0w means both oils are the same when cold. Going with a 0w over a 5w isn't that big of a deal IMO, in the winter or even year around.

But 50 is the hot temp viscosity, which is pretty thick. If you're not really punishing the car (at the track for example) I'm not sure there's much benefit to running a 50 weight oil. I think most people do fine with a 30 weight... but you've got a pretty built motor, so you might benefit from the heavier oil.

For example, I was running 15w50 in my track car just to help protect the motor a little more when hitting crazy high temps at the track (270F). Unfortunately, that was back when I was still running Mobile 1 before we realized the formula had been changed. Even with the thicker oil I spun a rod bearing on that stuff... then again I also really ran the car too hot. So who knows if it was the oil that failed and caused the heat, or the heat that caused the oil to fail. Either way, no more M1 for me.

Currently I run RedLine 5w30 in my WRX track car, Royal Purple 10w30 in our outbacks, and Rotella T6 in the Miata, and Delo 400 in the Diesel truck. I may go with something a little lighter in the outbacks for the winter, like a 5w30 or 0w30, but so far I've been able to go long miles between oil changes without burning oil in the turbo outback, which is something of a miracle. I'm at about 8,500 miles since my last change (I know, I know, I need to change it!) and I'm down less than a quart. Not bad for a turbo Subaru, so I may stick with the heavier oil.

I don't know anything about Eneos oils, but I would assume that the weight selection logic will be similar.

[michio10]

Originally Posted by sperry

I run the K&N filters on all my cars (3 Subarus and 1 Miata). I think they seem pretty decent. The Pure One's might be better, especially on a daily driven car that has to put up with tons of cold starts and long intervals between oil changes. I just have a much easier time finding the K&N filters locally at O'Reilly's and Summit. The wrench off nut is a nice feature too.

thanks for the suggestion as well as good explanation! as of right now I will be mainly using my car for mostly commuting, grocery shopping and bit of spirited cruises here and there with my friends. with this being said I'll try taking your word for it and test out the Pure One with my current driving situation.

[michio10]

Originally Posted by sperry

0w50 isn't going to be any different than 0w30 in the winter. The 0w means both oils are the same when cold. Going with a 0w over a 5w isn't that big of a deal IMO, in the winter or even year around.

But 50 is the hot temp viscosity, which is pretty thick. If you're not really punishing the car (at the track for example) I'm not sure there's much benefit to running a 50 weight oil. I think most people do fine with a 30 weight... but you've got a pretty built motor, so you might benefit from the heavier oil.

For example, I was running 15w50 in my track car just to help protect the motor a little more when hitting crazy high temps at the track (270F). Unfortunately, that was back when I was still running Mobile 1 before we realized the formula had been changed. Even with the thicker oil I spun a rod bearing on that stuff... then again I also really ran the car too hot. So who knows if it was the oil that failed and caused the heat, or the heat that caused the oil to fail. Either way, no more M1 for me.

Currently I run RedLine 5w30 in my WRX track car, Royal Purple 10w30 in our outbacks, and Rotella T6 in the Miata, and Delo 400 in the Diesel truck. I may go with something a little lighter in the outbacks for the winter, like a 5w30 or 0w30, but so far I've been able to go long miles between oil changes without burning oil in the turbo outback, which is something of a miracle. I'm at about 8,500 miles since my last change (I know, I know, I need to change it!) and I'm down less than a quart. Not bad for a turbo Subaru, so I may stick with the heavier oil.

I don't know anything about Eneos oils, but I would assume that the weight selection logic will be similar.

again, thanks for the response.

I failed to mention this when I was listing my specs but I do have a EJ257 and STI trans swapped into my wrx. anyways, as I mentioned on the post above, all I do is some spirited driving in the weekends and other wise I'm mostly doing regular stuff such as commuting and grocery shopping.
but when I go out to cruises, I do let the turbo fully spool to 21PSI here and there(of course after the engine/oil is warm etc etc). otherwise boost load is kept between under vacuum to about 5-8PSI so I may just be freaking out over something so minuscule

on the side note, my center diff and the trans seems to like the shock proof gear oil so i don't plan on changing it for a while. As far as the rear diff is concerned, I have a Quaife LSD in there and Perrin Diff Cover. I see some gear oil getting vented out from the top when i do an occasional spirited driving around the mountains for long period of time (about two rounds of Mt. Rose Hwy or the road to Virginia City I know Im weird... I just like driving there by myself occasionally ).
tbh im not too concerned about this since i checked the levels when I first noticed it and few more times after and it was nothing really to be concerned with.

I really appreciate your input on this. It sucks that I have to have my WRX pull double duty as far as daily driving and spirited weekend drives. I wish I have a beater Corolla or something. unfortunately being a recent College Graduate, that is not a luxury I can afford. But my dad has told me before picking this car up, Subaru Imprezas are very versatile vehicles and I really wanna do everything i can to keep her on the road as long as possible while enjoying what the car can offer as far as performance and versatility

-Michio

[Dean]

In a car with all your mods, I wouldn't use anything less than Royal Purple, Red-line!!! EVER!!!

Want to burn/blow by less oil, use 30wt. And since you are changing often, 5-30 in the winter. Otherwise, what you describe is not at all unusual for a forced induction motor with mods like yours. It may be on the low side actually!

Most really wide viscosity oils are crap from what I have read. Trying to do too much in one fluid. 25-30 spread max!

If you really want bearing/startup protection, throw some break in additive in there which has all the good anti-galling stuff in it the EPA/API has made them take out of newer oils to keep the O2 sensors happy longer.

And if you want to learn more about oil, start at Bob The Oil Guys

Purolators are at Pep Boys and occasionally on sale.

Oil threads:
There is a scan of an article in this one that is semi-useful, but some weights they used were odd and engines don't really have wear points like that.
http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?p=105842
http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthread.php?p=144930
Any thread with OIL and Royal purple and Red Line is probably worth a scan.

Filter info from one of those threads
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...ions-pics.html

[michio10]

thanks for the reply dean, I scanned through the posts and i found the bearing test to be the most interesting one. kinda wish there was a test on the eneos oil. but seems like I'm on the right track with 5w30 redline. my only remaining concern the just to tweak on the viscosity levels for the summer and winter. I suppose I will test the 30wt in the spring time. Mean while, I will still experiment with Eneos but just use 5w30 just for the heck of it. I mean Eneos is deemed to be the best brand of oil in Japan and my dad swore by it back when he used to track his r34 in Japan.

as for the oil additive, do you have any suggestion or recommendation? I see a lot of Lucas demo unit thing with little cranking plastic gear thing but I'm sure there is better stuff out there...

for oil filter I'd definitively give either the OEM and the Purator ones a try.

[Dean]

The new OEM ones are crap! Don't think they are in that link.

Zinc and Moly are the key additives that reduce/prevent galling and stuff like spun bearings, but nothing can stop it if the gap/tolerance goes to zero from heat/whatever.

I am not suggesting a particular additive, it was kind of an off the cuff remark.

If Eneos is so good, why would you consider an additive? You are choosing to use $6/qt imported Eneos that is not commonly used in the US Subaru community vs. $6-8 RP and Red-Line that are with pretty good results.

If you really want to know how your oil is doing, don't F around with different flavors/weights, get it tested! Go read Bob's stuff. You are playing around with something that will cost you $3K+ to swap if you screw up. Spend a few bucks to test what you have or go with what is proven to work. just my $.02...

[100_Percent_Juice]

So I have been using mobil 1 in my engine for years and yeah I am always adding but I thought most people were adding with other oil too. What is the oil to use now?

[Kevin M]

Anything that works well as an oil additive... is already added to quality oil.

[khail19]

I always hear everyone recommending the Shell Rotella T6 5w40. I've also heard that the Penzoil Platinum synthetic is pretty well regarded. Personally I just buy whatever synthetic (except M1) I find on sale, clearance, mail in rebate, etc. Right now I'm running Valvoline Synpower 10w30, which I found for $15 a gallon on clearance.

[michio10]

Originally Posted by Dean

The new OEM ones are crap! Don't think they are in that link.

Zinc and Moly are the key additives that reduce/prevent galling and stuff like spun bearings, but nothing can stop it if the gap/tolerance goes to zero from heat/whatever.

I am not suggesting a particular additive, it was kind of an off the cuff remark.

If Eneos is so good, why would you consider an additive? You are choosing to use $6/qt imported Eneos that is not commonly used in the US Subaru community vs. $6-8 RP and Red-Line that are with pretty good results.

If you really want to know how your oil is doing, don't F around with different flavors/weights, get it tested! Go read Bob's stuff. You are playing around with something that will cost you $3K+ to swap if you screw up. Spend a few bucks to test what you have or go with what is proven to work. just my $.02...

Dean, my apologies on the rather confusing reply. I was just curious to as what you would suggest to use as additive but I did not realize it was a off the cuff remark tbh Im not a big fan of any kind of additive in general.

Any how, I found a few threads on bob is the oil guy in regards to Eneos. interestingly I found out that that the ones sold in the US is blended in Alabama. Aside from that I will go read up more on Bob is the oil guy and hopefully find threads that are not filled with vendors pushy sales pitch. I mean, Just because the Eneos is #1 in Japan, it doesnt mean its the best up here.

As far as the oil filter is concerned, I'll take your word for it and stay away from the OEM ones. And if I can find a Purator filter around town with out an extreme hassle, I'll give it a shot (I go to meadow wood mall a lot due to my Japanese friends obsessions to shopping at that place.) so I'm around pep boys quite a bit. Otherwise, I'll just stick to what i can get at Summit Racing or near by auto parts store.


So, from what we've discussed so far and calling NAPA auto parts, I came down to this;

>>I was freaking out about my amount of oil that was filling up the catch can. But in actuality, this was something that is expected with this amount of mod i have on this car and in this motor.
Mostly, because I only did one oil change in this car since I bought back in late June and did not have a pre-established tendency of this car.

>RP and Redline are readily available here and has yielded good results which probably more than what I need.

>Eneos has to be ordered and takes a few days to get here (Napa auto parts) so with this being said, unless I find them locally and at a reasonable price in the foreseeable future or see some in stock when i'm on a trip, i'll probably stick to Redline or RP (which ever happens to be cheaper locally).

>Oil Filter:
which ever is cheaper or available between K&N and Purator (as of right now Purator is on my to try list)

>viscosity:
I will try out 5w-40 in the warmer time. as of right now, what I can gather from both Dean and Sperry's suggestions Im fine with redline 5w30 that is in my car for the coming winter.

I would like to thank both of you for valuable inputs and quick responses.
You guys helped me make my shopping list as far as motor oil as well as oil filter as well as help me be less freaked out about amount of stuff that went in my catch can.

-Michio

[sperry]

Originally Posted by khail19

I always hear everyone recommending the Shell Rotella T6 5w40. I've also heard that the Penzoil Platinum synthetic is pretty well regarded. Personally I just buy whatever synthetic (except M1) I find on sale, clearance, mail in rebate, etc. Right now I'm running Valvoline Synpower 10w30, which I found for $15 a gallon on clearance.

I'm running the T6 in my Miata. It's pretty much the go-to oil for the non turbo motors. Not sure how well it holds up when it has to run through a scalding hot turbo, but otherwise it seems good.

Then again, I did spin a bearing in my Miata while using the T6. However, I overheated that motor worse than any motor I've ever seen, and it still ran for most of a second day at the track the next day before letting go, so I'd actually say the oil did pretty good. Plus, it seems to be one of the few oils that doesn't coke up the lifters and cause valve train noise in the older Miata heads.

I wouldn't be surprised if the Rotella oils become popular budget oriented oils in the Subaru crowd. Certainly they should be fantastic in the N/A subarus. Not sure yet about turbo use though.

[k-dogg39]

I know Cody has been using rotella T6 in his wagon for quite a while. I was using it when I had a wrx motor too. There are lots of threads on nasioc with good uoa results from it as well on turbo Subaru's.

[100_Percent_Juice]

Originally Posted by Kevin M

Anything that works well as an oil additive... is already added to quality oil.

What are you talking about?

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by 100_Percent_Juice

What are you talking about?

He asked about additives to buy. I am pointing out that any ingredient which can be added to oil to improve its performance in some way is already being put into the oil by the manufacturer.

[michio10]

Originally Posted by Kevin M

Anything that works well as an oil additive... is already added to quality oil.

I agree... I dont really like additives. but it did tickle my curiosity.

[michio10]

Originally Posted by khail19

I always hear everyone recommending the Shell Rotella T6 5w40. I've also heard that the Penzoil Platinum synthetic is pretty well regarded. Personally I just buy whatever synthetic (except M1) I find on sale, clearance, mail in rebate, etc. Right now I'm running Valvoline Synpower 10w30, which I found for $15 a gallon on clearance.

yup, thats what I pretty much came down to...
nice to know people's suggestion on what to stay away from.

I was freaking out over something so mall..

[cody]

Originally Posted by k-dogg39

I know Cody has been using rotella T6 in his wagon for quite a while. I was using it when I had a wrx motor too. There are lots of threads on nasioc with good uoa results from it as well on turbo Subaru's.

Yep, I've been running it for years, even during the Winter last year, against my better judgement (since it's a little thick) but I'm very pleased with it. The price has gone up a bit, but they sell it at Pep Boys where I can get the fat Purolator Pure One filters and I use my Discover Cashback to buy PepBoys gift cards which works out as a 20% discount.

[van]

Originally Posted by cody

Yep, I've been running it for years, even during the Winter last year, against my better judgement (since it's a little thick) but I'm very pleased with it. The price has gone up a bit, but they sell it at Pep Boys where I can get the fat Purolator Pure One filters and I use my Discover Cashback to buy PepBoys gift cards which works out as a 20% discount.

Me too.