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Old 2006-03-08, 09:15 PM   #26
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Okay, so the car's been having a bit of a cooling issue since it got home... not that it's overheating or anything, but after I turn it off... the catch can overflows!

I think I fixed it... see if you can spot the problem in this picture:



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Old 2006-03-08, 09:19 PM   #27
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Coolant overflowing?

Catch can not the SCCA required 1 quart in volume?

Try new Tilex Clean Shower Overflow Cans!





Designed by the leader in temporary catch can solutions, Nate Sanso, this unit is unparalleled in ghettoness!


(Available at all Walbogs!)
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Old 2006-03-08, 09:24 PM   #28
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And now back to our show...

Here's the solution!



Note that the hose from the pressure cap used to run to the radiator instead of the overflow can... oops! Things are all swapped up now... hopefully we won't have any more episodes of dumping cooling all over the garage floor.
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Old 2006-03-08, 10:20 PM   #29
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Scott your car is awesome I couldnt believe how much power it had when we went to take those pictures

Glad you got the coolant problems fixed
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Old 2006-03-09, 12:59 AM   #30
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Only 290hp from a 20g? I think those guys put a pretty weak tune on their customer cars. I bet it can push more... what you guys need to do is learn how to tune yourselves; take it out on a deserted street late at night and tune it yourselves...

well, wait, how much psi is making 290hp?
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Old 2006-03-09, 01:28 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ln
Only 290hp from a 20g? I think those guys put a pretty weak tune on their customer cars. I bet it can push more... what you guys need to do is learn how to tune yourselves; take it out on a deserted street late at night and tune it yourselves...

well, wait, how much psi is making 290hp?
It's at about 22 psi.

First, 290/290 on a Mustang dyno's not bad... And second, it's a trials/autocross car... it's that 200 ft/lbs at 3400 rpm that's going to make it useably fast. Peak numbers aren't all that important.
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Old 2006-03-09, 02:15 AM   #32
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Congratulations, Scott I'll be up to Reno for a ride in May when I get back
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Old 2006-03-09, 11:56 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by sperry
I think I fixed it... see if you can spot the problem in this picture:
I think I figured it out...
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Old 2006-03-09, 12:07 PM   #34
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HAHAHAHAHAHA winner!
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Old 2006-03-09, 02:20 PM   #35
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Very nice! One of the best looking subies I have seen in a long ass time!
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Old 2006-03-09, 02:22 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Duckie
Very nice! One of the best looking subies I have seen in a long ass time!
Thanks man.

And now, it's got even less windshield cracks! (Just got the glass replaced this morning.)
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Old 2006-03-09, 02:36 PM   #37
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And now, it's got even less windshield cracks! (Just got the glass replaced this morning.)

I'm sure that will last one day at RFR

(sorry MikeK )
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Old 2006-03-09, 09:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sperry
It's at about 22 psi.

First, 290/290 on a Mustang dyno's not bad... And second, it's a trials/autocross car... it's that 200 ft/lbs at 3400 rpm that's going to make it useably fast. Peak numbers aren't all that important.
I didn't say that 290/290 is bad, but I think its weak coming from a 20g. What I tried to say last night is that they put a real conservative tune on their customer cars. With a 20g, I think you should be near 300-310 at 22psi and pump gas. But, thats just my opinion. Of course, all I'm doing is reading the info from DSMtuners and relating it to here. And I have never been to a dyno, so maybe I should stop talking

Looks good tho scott... gimme a ride.
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Old 2006-03-09, 10:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ln
I didn't say that 290/290 is bad, but I think its weak coming from a 20g. What I tried to say last night is that they put a real conservative tune on their customer cars. With a 20g, I think you should be near 300-310 at 22psi and pump gas. But, thats just my opinion. Of course, all I'm doing is reading the info from DSMtuners and relating it to here. And I have never been to a dyno, so maybe I should stop talking

Looks good tho scott... gimme a ride.
Yeah, you need a conservative tune on a road race car. A drag car's only gotta run between 10 and 15 seconds at a time... mine's gotta last 30 minutes per session, up and down through the gear box, deal with heat soak, latteral g's tossing the oil around in the block, etc.

The motor gets a pretty good workout (though the shock on the drivetrain is a lot less than drag cars see), and an extra 10 to 20 hp isn't going to make a huge difference in my lap times at my skill level. Hell, at my skill level I could have 50 more hp and it probably wouldn't help my times... the car is already faster than my ego... by a lot.

And I'll be giving rides at the 1st meet that the road isn't covered in ice, and I've got the car there w/ proper registration. I still haven't had time to get it smogged!
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Old 2006-03-09, 10:16 PM   #40
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Yeah, my Sti with it's weak 267 WHP tune is fast enough at RFR that I run out of talent before I run out of power. Just because I can top out 6th on the backstretch doesn't mean I do all the time.

Scott's car is going to FLY!
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Old 2006-03-09, 10:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sperry
Yeah, you need a conservative tune on a road race car. A drag car's only gotta run between 10 and 15 seconds at a time... mine's gotta last 30 minutes per session, up and down through the gear box, deal with heat soak, latteral g's tossing the oil around in the block, etc.

The motor gets a pretty good workout (though the shock on the drivetrain is a lot less than drag cars see), and an extra 10 to 20 hp isn't going to make a huge difference in my lap times at my skill level. Hell, at my skill level I could have 50 more hp and it probably wouldn't help my times... the car is already faster than my ego... by a lot.

And I'll be giving rides at the 1st meet that the road isn't covered in ice, and I've got the car there w/ proper registration. I still haven't had time to get it smogged!
Well, thats one thing that concerns me with my car... an engine work out. Im afraid my car cant handle it. Its stock EVERYTHING. Just bolt ons. Do you think race gas (100oct) and 18psi will be ok to run around RFR?
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Old 2006-03-09, 10:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ln
Well, thats one thing that concerns me with my car... an engine work out. Im afraid my car cant handle it. Its stock EVERYTHING. Just bolt ons. Do you think race gas (100oct) and 18psi will be ok to run around RFR?
I don't know enough about your motor to answer that. If the car is tuned for 91, you probably want to run a 2 to 1 mix of 91/100... (1 gal of 100 for every 2 gals of 91) for safety sake. According to Mike at Gruppe-S running straight 100 on a 91 tune will actually rob you of power.

And if you've got the ability, dropping down to 16 psi for the track would probably help both heat and make the car safer. You won't really miss the power. The biggest gains in lap times come from being able to carry cornering speed onto the straights, not just from having more power.
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Old 2006-03-10, 12:10 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ln
Well, thats one thing that concerns me with my car... an engine work out. Im afraid my car cant handle it. Its stock EVERYTHING. Just bolt ons. Do you think race gas (100oct) and 18psi will be ok to run around RFR?
The DSM tuners can answer that one better. Scott touched on one thing that's important about track motors- oil temps and oil slosh. An oil cooler (and trans cooler possibly) definitely wouldn't hurt, and would probably make things easier for the engine. So would a larger radiator, or at least a fresh 70/30 distilled water and antifreeze mix plus a bottle of Water Wetter or Purple Ice. Check if your injectors and fuel pump can handle the amount of horsepower you expect to make at the track. Upgrading the fuel pump is probably not a bad idea, as long as it won't throw your AFRs off by more than your O2 sensor can adjust for. 4G63s do that right? And like Scott also said, a small bump in octane for the car, up to 93 or 94, would probably be best when out on the track. Adds some det resistance without slowing down the burn enough to lose power or raise EGTs.
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Old 2006-03-10, 08:35 AM   #44
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Scott what kinda tranny do you have in that bitch? I don't wanna make any assumptions.
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Old 2006-03-10, 09:16 AM   #45
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Scott what kinda tranny do you have in that bitch? I don't wanna make any assumptions.
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Old 2006-03-10, 09:35 AM   #46
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That's what I figured. How well would a stock WRX tranny be able to handle power like that? Not good? Would it be alright if you you never accelerated fast or shifted hard?
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Old 2006-03-10, 09:40 AM   #47
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That's what I figured. How well would a stock WRX tranny be able to handle power like that? Not good? Would it be alright if you you never accelerated fast or shifted hard?
Depends on your clutch, but ya people have run more power on a stock tranny. For a car that's raced like Scott's, it might not last too long but a street car that's driven right it would be ok. You could just run an RA or Ver. 6 gearset though and be fine.
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Old 2006-03-10, 09:51 AM   #48
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Would it be alright if you you never accelerated fast or shifted hard?
No, the tranny would still be intimidated by the big snail under the hood and self destruct.
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Old 2006-03-12, 07:25 PM   #49
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The DSM tuners can answer that one better. Scott touched on one thing that's important about track motors- oil temps and oil slosh. An oil cooler (and trans cooler possibly) definitely wouldn't hurt, and would probably make things easier for the engine. So would a larger radiator, or at least a fresh 70/30 distilled water and antifreeze mix plus a bottle of Water Wetter or Purple Ice. Check if your injectors and fuel pump can handle the amount of horsepower you expect to make at the track. Upgrading the fuel pump is probably not a bad idea, as long as it won't throw your AFRs off by more than your O2 sensor can adjust for. 4G63s do that right? And like Scott also said, a small bump in octane for the car, up to 93 or 94, would probably be best when out on the track. Adds some det resistance without slowing down the burn enough to lose power or raise EGTs.
Thanks, I think I'll take your advice. Will a 70/30 water to antifreeze mix dry up fast, or will it be ok? And if I keep an eye on my EGTs, will that be a good thing to judge whether or not my engine is doing ok?

My tune (as far as a/f and the sort) is fine. Its just a constant 20min or so of 200+ horsepower over stock engine conditions that concerns me.

Sorry for highjacking your thread scott... I'll try to keep this in my thread Are you bringing your car out to the meet this thursday?
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Old 2006-03-12, 10:26 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sp00ln
Thanks, I think I'll take your advice. Will a 70/30 water to antifreeze mix dry up fast, or will it be ok? And if I keep an eye on my EGTs, will that be a good thing to judge whether or not my engine is doing ok?

My tune (as far as a/f and the sort) is fine. Its just a constant 20min or so of 200+ horsepower over stock engine conditions that concerns me.

Sorry for highjacking your thread scott... I'll try to keep this in my thread Are you bringing your car out to the meet this thursday?
EGT's are a good way to watch the motor, along w/ plain old oil and water temps. Remember: "to finish 1st, first you much finish". If things start getting too hot, just pull off the session early... save the car to run another day..

If it's not too cold/wet/icy on Thursday I'll try to bring the car out. Hopefully I'll have the thing registered by then.
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