could i pass tech with (car audio tech)

[khail19]

With $400 there's plenty of good amp choices. I like the JL and the PG Xenon, because they are so flexible. You can change subs and not have to worry about switching amps because they put out the same power at any impedance. The Alpine PDX is tiny, a good choice if it's going under a seat or if you want to cut down on weight.

JL 500/1
PG Xenon x600.1
Alpine MRD-605
Alpine PDX-1.600
Diamond D3 800.1
Memphis MCD500.1

[wrxkidid]

what about a 4 channel that i can bridge 2 channels to power the sub?

im putting the amp in the spar tire well or on the back of the back seat like in the pictures so size isnt an issue. id rather run one expensive amp to power the components and the sub instead of 2 because id have trouble finding space for 2 amps.

juice your welcome to the lift anytime. we just finished pooring the stem wals today. figure about a month and itll be good to go.

[wrxkidid]

is there anything wrong with a rockford fostgate p3? that ebay store has one for 99$ compared to like 250-300 everywhere else WTF

[khail19]

Originally Posted by wrxkidid

is there anything wrong with a rockford fostgate p3? that ebay store has one for 99$ compared to like 250-300 everywhere else WTF

I thought you already bought the Type-R? I've never been a fan of the newer RF subs.

[wrxkidid]

no i havent bought it yet. just my highest choice. havnet bought anything yet only the HU that was given to me.

[100_Percent_Juice]

IMHO the new RF subs have sacraficed sq so they can wrattle the doors a little more. I have heard them before and they make a lot of noise. I wouldnt buy them for me.

[wrxkidid]

for me SQ > SPL

[khail19]

Originally Posted by wrxkidid

for me SQ > SPL

Then you should go for the Type-X, that's a really nice SQ sub. They Type-R is more of a 50/50 mix, sounds pretty good but can get really loud too. Another sub that sounds really nice is the Dayton Reference series. They only run $130 or so for a 12", and they are very nice, well built subs. Free shipping right now as well.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=295-466

Another option would be one of the TC sounds subs, like a TC-1000. At $169 it's a little more expensive than the Dayton, but still a really good deal compared to what you get from the mainstream companies for the same price.

http://tcsounds.com/tc1000.htm

[khail19]

Originally Posted by wrxkidid

what about a 4 channel that i can bridge 2 channels to power the sub?

Sorry, I missed this before. A four channel amp that will bridge to 500-600 watts is going to be very expensive, and it's going to be a lot of power for the front channels as well. Which is OK, if you are careful with the gains. But you're going to need around a 150x4 amp to get 600w for the sub, and not too many amps will do that in your price range. I think you'd be better off with two separate amps. If you could get by with 300-400 watts for the sub, then there is a lot more choices.

[wrxkidid]

so would one of those TCsounds subs be a good option?

[khail19]

They are very nice sounding subs, well built and can handle some abuse. Every review that I've seen has been favorable.

[cody]

I know it's not as powerful as what you're looking for, but I run my fronts and a single JL sub off of a JL 300/4. It was pretty cheap off Ebay. Unfortunately I'm still running the stock HU and crappy Kenwood Exceleron Dual Mag front speakers.

[wrxkidid]

im not dead set on the Type R. the only reason i was set on the 500rms is because the type r called for 500 rms and i dont want any clipping. if these tc sounds subs run off a lower rms then thats better for me.

[A1337STI]

There are acoustic differences between 4Ohm and 2Ohm voice coil subwoofers, because it affects the coil size and position. This affects the Free air resonsance frequency, that affects everything else you need to design a good speaker box. Unless you don't design your box based upon Fs, Qes, Qtc, and overall desired Q factor,

In which case you are just dumping a speaker into a box becuase you "think" it will sound good. instead of knowing exactly what your box will be tuned to, what type of frequency response curve you will end up with..

That's completely wrong !!

just look at the dual voice coil 4 ohm and 2 ohm Xenon here under Fs and Qes and you will see what i mean : ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Man...ofermanual.pdf

[A1337STI]

My old systems were
4 Olympic warrior 10" in a .808 Q box (tuned really really low usually good for overall sound quality) but those were special small enclosure subs and i was able to tune them to 47 Hz (great for rap listerns)

My next box was a Band pass box tuned for spl (overall Q ratio of 1.2 ish) that was also tuned to 47 Hhz, It took 1st place in the area 51 car comp in carson (like 5 or 7 years ago) hitting 138 DBs in a honda prelude si

then i went with my new system and setup a box to be tuned to 35 Hz with a low Q and hated it big time. ( i listen to less rap then before) but that's just too low for most of my music, i recaculated and decided to take out .8 cubic feet of air, i did that by glueing blocks of wood into my box. Now it sounds much better, but the box alone weights like 90 lbs... (with out the sub) i hate the orientation too. so i'm just waiting till i decide to 'do it right'

if you want some help figuring out response curves, tuning Fs, and what not , lmk i'll need to find some specs on the speaker you are going to by, and what type of music you like, what type of bass you like.

[A1337STI]

you can probably find some tools online. I wrote some to design sealed boxes, a long long time ago. like 96' its in Basic or something and i pretty damn sure i've lost them by now. lol

[Dewey]

Originally Posted by wrxkidid

is there anything wrong with a rockford fostgate p3? that ebay store has one for 99$ compared to like 250-300 everywhere else WTF

dont go with a p3, they crack right down the middle when powered "properly" i heve seen it happen twice (people that i know) and when "powered properly" meaning powered at the recommended limit. i dont know about the new 2007 p3s but if you want it to hit you hard spend some money and get a T1
plus D4 is a little easier to buy an amp for cause its easier to make one that is four ohms. they will both sound the same. the profile amp is no brand name but will work just as well as any of the brand name orr higher priced amps will. a little less money put into the amp and more in the sub would be my conclusion. unless you are looking for cosmetic as well. the quality of the lower end amps are still good. they all have to pass the same inspections....
hope this helps

[wrxkidid]

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthr...ght=custom+box

that is the thread that im thinking about getting my box from.

I would be happy with a 50/50 mix cause sometimes i like to get it loud as well. just aslong as ints not 100% SPL.

here are the specs on the type-r
» 12" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils
» Kevlar® reinforced pulp cone with Santoprene rubber surround
» cast aluminum frame with perimeter venting
» frequency response: 23-500 Hz
» power handling: 200-500 watts RMS (250 watts per coil)
» peak power: 1,500 watts
» sensitivity: 85 dB
» top-mount depth: 7-5/8"
» sealed box volume: 0.57-1.0 cu. ft.

[wrxkidid]

im gonna bring this one back to life.

that box i was looking at no one can give me a exact internal volume so im probably going to end up using a regular style box which opens some things up. Instead of the 1 12 i was thinking of 2 10s or maybe try something different and go with 4 8s :sneaky: if you mount subwoofers directly at eachother they cancel out correct? what about mounting them facing each other like this \ / instead of | |. these would be facing towards the inside of the trunk mounted on the sides along with the 2 subs that were rear firing. would that be way too much turbulence? the 8 inch subs i was looking at are Image Dynamics ID8 v3 D2 subs http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID8V3D2

another option:
How hard is fiberglassing? measuring my spare tire area I could fiberglass an enclosure to fit all of them there. and still be removable.

cory made me realize that my car is already ridiculously fast so i decided to make it a little more comfortable/enjoyable.

[100_Percent_Juice]

I doubt you would be happy with 4 8s. Also I have personally tested several sub angles in a trunk and firing towards each other even at an angle doesnt sound the best. Pointed to the rear sounded best.

[wrxkidid]

well i measured my trunk cause i cant sleep and i found out i can go 33x13x13 and fit all 3 rear firing with .765 cubic feet per sub with each sub divided from the others. that would be using 3/4 inch MDF

the fit would actually be perfect with about .5 of an inch on each side of the box between the side of the trunk and i would still maintain MORE THAN HALF of my trunk space. hows that for luck. :sneaky:

i did some reading and a bunch of people recommended the Image Dynamics ID10 v3 D2 sub.http://www.cardomain.com/item/IDSID10V3D2
then run it off of a power acoustik PS1-2000D mon amp @ 2 ohms. should feed 300 rms to each sub which is the recommended rms so that makes me happy too. http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWPS12000D

I can actually build the box myself so that will be about 40$ in materials then the subs are about 400 then 200 for the amp + 60 for the amp kit im at 700$ and have some extra money for something nifty like this http://www.cardomain.com/item/JENVM9412

[100_Percent_Juice]

^your links are so borked

[A1337STI]

sup, good find on the data !

I'm not so sure on that speaker It does tune down amazingly low for such small air space (and being a 10) , but at some of the lower tunings the F3 appears to be above the Tuning point. F3 is the point where the box loses half of its loudness .

at .95 Cubic feet i'm seeing a 45.1 hz and a 45 Hz so its tuned to the F3 ... I'm not sure if specs are off a lil or what because their website shows different tuning data . i need to find a few other companies with specs out and recommended boxes with specs and see if the program i'm using is off, or if Image Dynamics is fudging its tuning points a bit.

when i've compared other companies its usually right on (such as pioneer)

At .64 cubic feet (.8 Q) the box will be tuned to 51, with a F3 of 46 that's Much better. now its tuned to a point where it isn't at half volume.

and the F3 didn't move much

At .46 Cubic feet (.9 Q) its tuned to 58 hz, with an F3 of 48. an ever larger spread .

that's probably a touch high for rap music.

at .39 Cubic feet (1.0 Q) its tuned to 64 with an F3 of 50

at .26 Cubic feet (1.2 Q) its tuned to 77 with an F3 of 56




maybe go with this sub, this is a Crazy steal

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

but you will need a lot of power if you want to push 3 of them.

.42 Cubic feet (1.2 Q) would tune to 48, with an F3 of 35 !!!. now that's more of what you want. that sub will need like 400 rms / 800 peak though ... maybe more. its power hungry.

3 of those with 1200 rms ... yeah that would be loud

[A1337STI]

How did i come up with that you may ask ? its easy I"m sure you already know all the math, just some new formulas

Box Tuned Frequency
Qtc is the over all Q Ratio i was talking about before

Fc= (Qtc)(Fs)/Qts

Box Volume is a little more tricky
You find the constant for that speaker and That overall Q (Qtc)

Constant = ((Qtc/Qts)^2 ) -1


then Constant = Vas / Vb (both must be the same so if Liters keep liters, if cubic feet, keep cubic feet)

[wrxkidid]

those pheonix golds are sweet. sounds more like what id be looking for.

i measured some stuff out last night and it might be inda difficult to go with the 2 rear firing in the spare tire area. it would be really hard to fit them there. where else would be a good spot? the 2 @ 800rms seems like it would be enough 3 @ 1200rms might make me lose my hearing haha.

what about this amp alex?
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...44239234235236

it would be more than enough for 2 10s and if i decided to be cool and run 3 it would stull support it.

then run like a 2 farad cap?