Stainless steel brake lines?

[Ezdno]

Anyone have an idea how long it should take to replace my brake lines. I just picked up some parts I bought a while ago and figure I better put them on. I want to do the SS brake lines first, then the rear strut bar. I dont plan on lowering my car, so the adjustable camber bolts might go unused. I am still undecided on the oil separator thing, any suggestions?

[cody]

Brake lines and pads took me and Kevin a few hours IIRC. Of course if you install the correct lines on the correct side of the car, you can easily shave off some time.

Here's a link to some advice I was given here regarding how to get the old ones off without stripping a nut you have to reuse.

Originally Posted by Dean

I have done 4 sets of brake lines with my Harbor Freight line [flare] wrenches and never mangled a nut. Get Metric, and english and find the right size!! Use a mallet/dead blow hammer so it is impacting instead of torqueing. Use the right tools, correctly, and it will be fine.

http://www.seccs.org/forums/showthre...ench#post56076

[sperry]

If you've never done brake lines before, but you're mechanically inclined, expect about an hour to do the swap. Someone that's experienced will be able to do it in closer to 15 minutes, assuming no stripped out nuts, which is unfortunately pretty common with those stupid flare fittings. Plus another hour to bleed the brakes if you don't have a lot of practice bleeding (these days, the SECCS track whore crew is down around 10-15 minutes to bleed since we all do it so much).

Rear strut bar installation sucks on a Sedan, and adds nothing. On your wagon, the install should be a breeze. The only part that's not totally straightforward is the cutting of the top mount trim caps... basically if you screw it up, you screw up the interior, but nothing critical. What makes the install even easier is if you're doing one of the quick-release bars... the only problem is that I'm starting to think that those quick-release bars that have the pivots in them probably don't do all that much, compared to a rigid bar. But you can't take a rigid bar out to carry extra cargo w/o undoing the top mount bolts.

Rear camber bolts are probably a good idea even at stock ride-heights, simply because the car has *no* rear camber adjustment from the factory. If you've got 'em, you can align the rear much better, even if you're not doing anything crazy.

What's an "oil seperator thing"? A catch can? I wouldn't install one w/o doing plenty of research 1st. If it's not hooked up properly, with all the correct diameter hoses and such, you'll end up making things worse. The only "easy" way to do a catch can w/o side effects is to do *two* catch cans, one for the PCV system, the other for the valve cover breathers. Otherwise, you can be like me and have a catch can that fills up in 10 minutes on the race track. (That reminds me, I need to pull off my intake and intercooler and hose out all the oil that's probably coating everything, and check my spark plugs to make sure they're not all fouled up...)

[Dean]

For the strut bar, check out this thread on Scoobymods...

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191

If you want to do it some morning this weekend before it gets to hot, you are welcome to do brakes at my place. "Dude we can fix it, my dad's got an awesome set of tools"

Never done a strut bar. (They are a waste of tire money on a sedan IMHO)

[Kevin M]

Originally Posted by Dean

If you want to do it some morning this weekend before it gets to hot, you are welcome to do brakes at my place. "Dude we can fix it, my dad's got an awesome set of tools"

Okay quotemaster, here you go

"Dude, I can fix this. My old man's a TV repairman, he's got the ULTIMATE set of tools."

[Dean]

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

Okay quotemaster, here you go

"Dude, I can fix this. My old man's a TV repairman, he's got the ULTIMATE set of tools."

You were closer than I was, but you got the lead in wrong, or so says the INTARWEB.

[after Spicoli wrecks Jefferson's car]
Jefferson's Brother: My brother's gonna kill us! He's gonna kill us! He's gonna kill you and he's gonna kill me, he's gonna kill us!
Jeff Spicoli: Hey man, just be glad I had fast reflexes!
Jefferson's Brother: My brother's gonna shit!
Jeff Spicoli: Make up your mind, dude, is he gonna shit or is he gonna kill us?
Jefferson's Brother: First he's gonna shit, then he's gonna kill us!
Jeff Spicoli: Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

I miss the 80s... NOT!

[cody]

And don't over tighten the little strut-top nuts. Use a 1/4" drive wratchet.

[Ezdno]

Ok I was in a hurry and mistyped, its not a strut bar, its a white line lower torsion bar for the rear. I am not sure if I need new mountings or not but it doesnt look like it.

I am pretty mechanically inclined, been working on various cars all my life, but its nice to get imput with people that tear their's apart and put them back together regularly.

The oil separator thing is a complete kit used to defoam the oil I will have to look it back up and see exactly what its supposed to do. I have decided to look into the camber adjusters a bit more before I decide on them. I also got a injen cold air intake, but if I am not mistaken, you all agreed that unless I am going to tune for it, stock is a better choice.

Dean, I would appreciate your help with the brakes, I can make plans for the early morning on either Sat or Sun, you pick the date. Oh I will need to pick up some BFluid I guess.

Thanks everyone for your input.

[Kevin M]

Lower torsion bar? Do you mean sway bar?

Oh, and for the brakelines, go buy the proper flare wrenches. And a small or needle-nose vice-grip for when one or two strip out anyway...

[Ezdno]

Originally Posted by BAN SUVS

Lower torsion bar? Do you mean sway bar?

Yes

[Dean]

Sunday? After 8am?

[Ezdno]

PM me your # I will call you after 8am

[Ezdno]

Swap and bleed, 1.5 hrs. no stripped flare nuts. Part of that was BS'n. Thanks again Dean.

[Dean]

No problem. Glad I could help.